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Milkshake on rebuilt engine

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Old 08-02-2017, 08:34 PM
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Thanks

im sure its water temp, but i dont think its hot. I think its steam I disconnected each sender to verify

i havnt checked with temp gun yet but i will be this wknd. I could put my hand all over the motor and nothing felt hot but the actual sender was hot. I also swapped wires and gauge went dead.

I got to thinking tonight. When the motor was out i inspected all the hoses and discovered a piece of smaller hose inside the bypass hose from crossover to thermostat housing (for exhaust). I thougjt it odd and removed it. Now i am wondering if someone placed it there to force more water to the block.

I got the 140 thermostat and it doesnt fit. I must have orderd the wrong # or something. I wont be able to get a new one in time so i thought i would try a 4th hole in the 160 thermostat and see if it does anything.
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Old 08-04-2017, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cabin fever
Alarm sender on the right.
have you cleaned the senors since your milkshake incident? or got knew ones?
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Old 08-05-2017, 09:00 PM
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i havnt but i did some teating today.

Over 3000 rpm alarm sounds after 5 min. Water temp =125. After 10 min oil temp =200.

I stopped after 10 min and lifted hatch. Laser temped everything. Risers/manifolds 110. Starboaed side of manifold= 150. Port side (where alarm sender is) = 190. Motor/heads = 150ish. Oil filter =175.

Water psi is 8-10#. I think this is a bit low but i also drilled a extra hole in thermostat.

My plan now is get. 140 thermostat and gonna replace impeller and housing. I dont like the 45 degree difference between the 2 Sides of the intake. Im thinking my thermostat wasnt probabley even opening. Still not sure why one side of intake is flowing less water.

Last edited by cabin fever; 08-05-2017 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 08-05-2017, 09:03 PM
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How can intake manifold coolant be hotter than exhaust manifolds/risers ?
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Old 08-05-2017, 09:12 PM
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Is 125* unusually low for 5 minutes at 3,000? Or even likely?
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Old 08-05-2017, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by cabin fever
i havnt but i did some teating today.

Over 3000 rpm alarm sounds after 5 min. Water temp =125. After 10 min oil temp =200.

I stopped after 10 min and lifted hatch. Laser temped everything. Risers/manifolds 110. Starboaed side of manifold= 150. Port side (where alarm sender is) = 190. Motor/heads = 150ish. Oil filter =175.

Water psi is 8-10#. I think this is a bit low but i also drilled a extra hole in thermostat.

My plan now is get. 140 thermostat and gonna replace impeller and housing. I dont like the 45 degree difference between the 2 Sides of the intake. Im thinking my thermostat wasnt probabley even opening. Still not sure why one side of intake is flowing less water.
Originally Posted by SB
How can intake manifold coolant be hotter than exhaust manifolds/risers ?

my only simple theory is i have a water flow issue. My more exspensive theory is a intake issue. Is it possible i have more water goi g through the bypass hose on the crossover to the manifolds?

Gauage stayed at 125 no matter how hard motor was pushed ( i did t pushe it hard after i realized what was going on). I can idle all day long and nothing gets warm at all
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Old 08-06-2017, 04:13 AM
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1 side of front intake passage hotter than the other? Is it possible engine guy got so paranoid about water leak that he overdid the gasket sealer and a blob of silicone is partly blocking water port there? Pull sender and adapter and stick a coat hanger hook in there and play go fish. Then mebbe switch sender locations.
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Old 08-06-2017, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by cabin fever
. Is it possible i have more water goi g through the bypass hose on the crossover to the manifolds?

Gauage stayed at 125 no matter how hard motor was pushed ( i did t pushe it hard after i realized what was going on). I can idle all day long and nothing gets warm at all
Yes, possible and probably what's happening.

You are probably running into a crossover issue for not only the bypass but also the side to side water temp issues.

Many people fight all different things from use of a crossover including water psi and oil temps also.

Do a search on this and you'll see. The Merc recirculating system seems to work much better, especially when one boats up North. Those in warm waters in south seem to do 'okay' with crossover with no bypass and thus use of restrictors instead of t-stats.
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Old 08-06-2017, 10:01 AM
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I ordered a raw water pump rebuild kit. Gonna replace it all just to rule it out. Maybe I scored it when it was starving for water on the hose earlier.

I wanna try a 140 thermostat but nit having much luck locating the right part #. Any one know what i need? I guessing my current thermostat isnt even opening if im only getting 125 temp on the gauge

i starting to think the piece of hose that was inside the crossover hose was put there to divert more water to block. Kinda like a restrictor.
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Old 08-06-2017, 01:13 PM
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Take out hose off inlet of crossover from raw pump. Hold it away from stuff and start engine. If it shoots a stream of water as thick as hose dia that travels forward a foot as it starts to drop, you probably have plenty of water flow. If It dribbles and drops as it leaves the hose, you have pump issues.
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