Daytona Sensors starter issues
 

Having trouble with starter kick back,etc. I believe my ignition boxes are causing part or most of my problem with timing regard feature? Any thoughts.

Retarding timing helps the engine crank over easier.

Are you running a custom timing map in your boxes?

+ how long have you had this system up and running , or new install ?

Is this a new install? Did you modify your rotor or get the correctly phased rotor?
Eddie

Diagram in this thread.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/do-yourself-boating-budget/214675-crane-fireball-hi-6-ignition-help.html#&gid=1&pid=1

I`m having the same issue, I retarded the timing at start up 10* and 7 revolutions before spark ...and I`ve had to have one starter gear replaced cause it wants to turn backwards/hickups.. not sure why. I have IMI High TQ starters . .. now even the new one is chipped again on one tooth.

I built new 582ci /na motors with the Daytona cd1 marine system. I don't understand the rotor issue. The motors run perfectly except all the starter issues. I've wrecked ring gears,starters,etc. Ready to kill myself. Never had problems like this. First is was my la firing order then, I figured alignment issues because of dart block or called crank forge. I've shimmed,etc. Msd dynaforce starters trashed. It works perfectly without spark and then starting nothing but grinding, banging. I start one with kill switch off etc, can't hear the other. I even machined the flywheel thinking it was too far away. Tried everything thinking it's gotta be timing issue from the ignition system. I'm so frustrated. I don't normally

I'm running the na motor timing curve 34 deg all in.no.7 code I believe

I've been running since last summer

Make sure you read up on the rotor phasing and set it.

thanks maybe that's the issue

You shouldnt have any start retard with that curve. You can enable start retard with a custom timing map.

What kind of cranking psi do you have when doing a compression test ?

Exactly what I was going to get to depending on his answer. Good to see I was thinking along the lines of others. :)

To the OP: The rotor is phased different from how the OEM rotor comes new. You can either do the modification yourself (Daytona has instructions for this) or you can simply by a modified rotor from them.

​​​​​​​Did you buy one from them already modded ? Did you do it yourself ? Or did you not know this ?

You know we're a Daytona Sensor Dealer and we use their products daily but we dyno every engine we build so it's a fool proof system you may want to give them a call about the proper set up those guys are super sharp and I'm sure they can point you in the right direction call Allen or one of the tech guys. You've got a great product and they'll be happy to help. Good luck Sincerely Laz Mesa

Icdedppl isnt running a mercury distributor.

the reason eddie mentioned rotor phasing, is because the boxes remove timing electronically. You can only pull so much timing, before crossfiring in the cap becomes an issue, because the rotor to terminal relationship grows . Especially with a small cap distributor.

Crossfiring while cranking the engine , can certainly cause starter kickback.

Every 4 pulses, equals 1 revolution of the engine. In custom timing mode, you can adjust this. I wanna say max is 12 pulses if i recall. That would be 3 complete revolutions of the emgine before spark ignites.

I think I just realized the retard feature was turned off on my boxes. I should be ok now. Too much timing at start up I believe was causing the kick back. They have great features with those ignition system s. Stupid me confused on all the dials that control that issue. Otherwise I would have to use kill switches to turn over then light it like the race car guys etc.... Friggin A. Thanks for all the help.

Btw I use an MSD zero advance mag p/u dist. So the rotor phase process does not apply

What do you have for initial advance as seen with your gun ?

great mine too .. changed msd distributer ,to a mercury . thought my starter came loose . checked that . I was like wtf .. mark from mer came had issues with computer , never really got the full benefits of the boxes .really bums me out .. now this great ... thanks for the tecknicle knowledge of this issue .. hate to wreck a ring gear ;; sure nasty sounding when she grinds lol

I think 20 degrees but the anti stall feature changes it.

The only way to have "start retard" is if using a custom timing mode uploaded from a PC/laptop. There is no "switch" to turn it on or off on the box.

The "anti-stall" curve, has 22 deg of base timing at idle , or should I say "SHOULD have", if you want your total timing to be 34*. if 36* total is what you want, then you would have 24* at idle. Anti-stall and Idle stabilization, are not the same thing. Idle stabilization, is a parameter that must be selected and setup thru the software.

These boxes are great, but reading the instructions that came with them, is mandatory.

..

Once you guys with this issue verify you're using the correct rotor for your application I'd disable the multi spark feature.

Also if using a stock balancer make sure TDC has not moved.

Tell us more please. Thanks.

These Boxes are Loaded with features but like Joe said read the instructions. The idle stabilization is interesting to watch on the timing light when activated. If you have any doubts about getting them set don't hesitate to double check yourself with the light.

Also, if you've activated the idle stabilization feature make sure you set it up so it's not activating during cranking. One of the parameters is how many signals to ignore during initial cranking.

I spoke to Daytona and they said that mode would work, I'm going to verify with a timing light.

i`m going to try turning the start retard off , I started having issues after the Daytona boxes

so you have the mode switch on 1 not 0 and you were getting kickbacks?

I do everything thru the laptop, the buttons on the side have no options ..

Just to clarify . unless using a mercury distributor no need to do any rotor sync msd distributor is ok . also the box has built in parameters with the dials and yes you can set a timing retard feature up without using the pc link . if you activate the blue input with a 12 volt source at cranking you could technically customize the amount of timing you wanted removed just by using the dial from 2degrees to 18 degrees. . could set it up multiple ways either using a relay at cranking or off the ignition switch . problem was solved by just enabling the retard function and idle stabilization is still on. engine cranks like a dream . now to hit the 90 mph mark next challenge .

Good call. I forgot that you can do it that way. I have always used a programmable map setup, that can do start retard based on cranking rpm.

Are you saying that idle stabilization can be used without PC link? I don't see how you could set up the parameters of idle stabilization without PC link?

What problem did you have ?