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Originally Posted by dereknkathy
(Post 4584795)
so not only is it a manifold you prefer, you have the injector where in the airstream you want and pointed at the angle you want. as opposed to off the shelf stuff. which gets injectors installed wherever is easiest...
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Very cool stuff , thanx for sharing. I really like the way you mounted the fuel rail to the intake, now you just need to do that for us blower guys:drool1:
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Todays update is the proper set up of the valve trane geometry this is a very important subject as there's always questions regarding spring failure lifter noise and so on . I have overlooked saying we have a Instagram account with some really nice pictures and videos of our engines and machine here in the shop please check us out mesaracingengines on instagram.
https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...85&oe=5A81BF7B Here you can see the angle in which the rocker should contact the tip of the valve and as you can see its all free standing with no load. In shaft rocker assemblies such as these there's two good things you can adjust both the attack angle by setting the stand height and the pushrod length were it makes for a real narrow and precise contact wear pattern. Don't get me wrong this can also be done with a standard roller rocker but the length of the pushrod needs to be more precise and sometimes getting a pushrod between .050 increments if difficult. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...bc&oe=5A7D5DB1https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...45&oe=5A7C9AE1 Here you can see how nice of a wear pattern you can achieve with a good set of rocker shafts properly set up. I always ask guys to look at this first when they tell me they have an engine with lifter noise this is the easiest thing an engine builder or weekend warrior can overlook when changing a cam. The smallest change in base circle or lift can cause a need to change the pushrods and close enough is not close enough. The wear pattern needs to always be in the center of the valve and the closer you arrive to the proper geometry the narrower it will be. Don't forget check us out on istagram. Sincerely Laz |
This is a bit off the path today but it pertains to our EFI intake manifolds . We make our own fuel rails for most of our intakes and here's how they start out fuel rail stock we machine injector holes in and weld our own aluminum AN8 male bungs. These rails are also machined for fuel press sensors which will operate the guardian system in our ECU. We also use a water temp oil press and oil temp sensor to activate the guardian if needed.
https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...34&oe=5A6B3D73 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...91&oe=5A3A9C61 These will get polished and cleaned and sent to powdercoat next week. P.S. I hope to see you guys at the Miami Boat Show in Feb. we will have a booth in the engine manufacturers tent. |
Here's the final fit and finish on a Brodix intake to set the port height flange angle and make sure the gasket surface is perfect.
https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...53&oe=5A7A29C4 |
Great thread. Mesa or whom ever is interested. what seals are working best. I've heard leave exhaust seals off . Take springs off the pos stop seals. My original gm mercruiser heads had the white nylon seals. I think the viton seals May not be letting enough oil to the guides. I see a little bronze on some of my stems. I've read quite a few threads here about valves sticking. I feel this is a very important issue.
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