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Freshly built motor loses oil pressure with RPM?

Old 09-19-2017, 09:06 PM
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OK if he didn't then I apologize, we don't have a history of doing well, so I was in defense... moving on..
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:16 PM
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Just seems like you both can't pass up a chance to take a shot at each other. So I figured let's take to the extreme. Either that or accept the fact that you are 2 smart nice guys that both know what you are talking about and won't agree on everything.
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:28 PM
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funny thing,i like both guys but i will say tim sure takes things to heart,me thinks he needs to lighten up just a little.
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Old 09-19-2017, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
funny thing,i like both guys but i will say tim sure takes things to heart,me thinks he needs to lighten up just a little.
I have a lot recently, hence why I barely even post here anymore or anywhere else that opens myself up for issues, after taking the beating I did and having many guys tell me how stupid I am you get defensive.... this stupid guy here has been doing a lot of boating with his "crap" engines that are now over 100 hrs... guess I am not too stupid after all lol

I am moving on, no reason to keep this going, I gave my advice, just was pointing out something to look at.
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Old 10-18-2017, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Revelocity
The engine will be pulled in the next few weeks - the season is over. I did remove the extra quart of oil when I swapped oil cooler and lines so I'm back where I started. Apprehensive about experimenting removing any additional oil. The engine was completely machined sparing nothing and professionally assembled (i.e. not me!). Will work with Titan to pick out a new specified oil pan and of course check out bearing etc. Thanks,
Hey rev. Here is what happened to my engines as far as oil goes. I have it straightened out now. Dart tall deck blocks. Last season I used high volume high pressure pump springs stock setup for 540 bulldogs but dart blocks. I was pumping to much oil up to the top and it couldn't drain back to pan fast enough oil pressure dropped at mid rpm range . Pulled 1 engine for problems. I changed the pressure relief spring to let go at 65 psi. 60 lb spring with 1/16 spacer behind it. My previous pressure was pegged I'm guessing over 90psi cold 80 psi hot. This year same thing was happening . I bought Smith brothers restrictive pushrods with .040 holes instead of the standard .080 holes. That cured the issue of to much oil to the top. After that I found foamy oil which also causes oil pressure to drop. Now to much oil in pan. Removed 2 qts now 10 qts in 12 qt mercruiser aluminum bump out pan. Oil pressure is now stable. This year pulled both engines. After talking with Smith Brothers this year. He suggested drilling rear of heads and adding drain back lines to the pan.1/2 to 3/4 npt and block the end holes in the head so the oil doesn't drain back to lifter valley, instead faster more efficient way back to pan by way of drain back lines. He also stated NASCAR guys do this in the valve covers to keep oil level h higher in the heads . That's how they get them too live at 10000rpm. I will be drill my heads this year at the rear as high as possible. Probably 3/4 npt. Just sharing what happened to me. You can not see foam on the dipstick. But when you pull it out with a vacuum pump with clear sides,there it was at top of oil. Hate to see this happen to anyone else. The engine with 65 psi spring idles at 40 psi and 70 psi at 3500 rpm+ hot

Last edited by veloc410; 10-18-2017 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 10-19-2017, 08:50 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by veloc410
Hey rev. Here is what happened to my engines as far as oil goes. I have it straightened out now. Dart tall deck blocks. Last season I used high volume high pressure pump springs stock setup for 540 bulldogs but dart blocks. I was pumping to much oil up to the top and it couldn't drain back to pan fast enough oil pressure dropped at mid rpm range . Pulled 1 engine for problems. I changed the pressure relief spring to let go at 65 psi. 60 lb spring with 1/16 spacer behind it. My previous pressure was pegged I'm guessing over 90psi cold 80 psi hot. This year same thing was happening . I bought Smith brothers restrictive pushrods with .040 holes instead of the standard .080 holes. That cured the issue of to much oil to the top. After that I found foamy oil which also causes oil pressure to drop. Now to much oil in pan. Removed 2 qts now 10 qts in 12 qt mercruiser aluminum bump out pan. Oil pressure is now stable. This year pulled both engines. After talking with Smith Brothers this year. He suggested drilling rear of heads and adding drain back lines to the pan.1/2 to 3/4 npt and block the end holes in the head so the oil doesn't drain back to lifter valley, instead faster more efficient way back to pan by way of drain back lines. He also stated NASCAR guys do this in the valve covers to keep oil level h higher in the heads . That's how they get them too live at 10000rpm. I will be drill my heads this year at the rear as high as possible. Probably 3/4 npt. Just sharing what happened to me. You can not see foam on the dipstick. But when you pull it out with a vacuum pump with clear sides,there it was at top of oil. Hate to see this happen to anyone else. The engine with 65 psi spring idles at 40 psi and 70 psi at 3500 rpm+ hot
Thanks for sharing your experience and the suggestions. I believe the drainage situation is most likely the problem. Still I'll get an oil pan specifically made for the large-sized Titan pump while the engine is out! This is for my 280 so at least it's only a single engine to deal with!
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Old 10-19-2017, 12:41 PM
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When there was to much oil at the top I new I didn't have fast enough drain back because I shut engines down imediately and checked the dipstick. It was at the bottom . Inserted dipstick 2 more times and oil was up further each time. My dipstick reach down pretty far so it was easy to tell how much was missing.. even though there are large slots in the lifter valley the oil has hard time getting back. Between windage, pressurized oil spraying from the crank , oil falling down on crank and being sprayed back up at slots ,the oil just can't make it's way back in time.
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Old 10-19-2017, 03:12 PM
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Maybe that's why GM puts that nice big hole so that it goes in his timing chain one side of the chain is throwing it up while the other side of the chain is throwing it straight down. Might be something dark might want to consider copying. Okay, I just reread this thread. I thought this was a Dart Block. Now I don't see it saying that in there anywhere. And from what I hear Dart doesn't have the big oil drain hole at the front of the block.

Last edited by dereknkathy; 10-19-2017 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 10-19-2017, 04:13 PM
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Your right no hole but I think you can order them drilled in. Rear valley also. I didn't know. I ordered short blocks.
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Old 02-01-2018, 04:16 PM
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Revolocity you inbox is full
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