I will run bypass lines back to tanks. I can see that would be the best unless I end up running lower pressure pumps. Regardless I like the idea of the red lights on dash for low pressure rather than gauges. I'll place another order with cp.

less than ideal but i did it at 1100hp w zero issues. I buffered the return by sending it to inlet of fuel filter/suction line connection so pump would have a little cushion from any erratic flow. I also used sm as ll oil cooler as a fuel cooler after pump so motor would get a cooled fuel supply, Smitty

Be sure to put the light where you can see it in the sun of day. Someone here was super happy with the light but couldn't see it in the sun until it was too late.

I was looking into that Clay Smith bypass that MT mentioned but haven't figured out how to plumb it off of my QF as it has flare(?) fittings. I'm sure there's a tee but I haven't found it yet.

I like cool fuel method. Often wondered about that. Nice...

Good point. Maybe buzzer alarms be better. Also are the Jegs adjustable fuel pressure sensors adequate regardless of the red lights or buzzer. I may be over doing this slightly however I just don't want any melt downs due to something that could have been easily avoided. Afr gauges will be in dash also but like MT said flying across the water with a lot potentially going on I don't really care to be eyeballing gauges constantly.

Could maybe do a combo of dash light and buzzer. Boat is old school 12 meter so there's not really any other buzzers etc.

I would use the buzzer with a light as if you're too focused to watch a guage then a light can go unnoticed until it's too late as well. The light will indicate which buzzer is going off if you have multiple alarms.

I still have the teeny stock Merc oil cooler. Is it worthwhile to run fuel through it in a N/A set up?

Question is probably more directed to Smitty but depending on what engine and power your running it could be advantageous. When I was younger in my 1/4 mile racing days I use to cool my fuel with a coiled up copper tubing inside of a number 12 size canister filled with ice prior to making a pass down the strip. Whether it ever made a difference what so ever I'm not sure however I liked the concept to cool the fuel. If anyone has dyno proven results it would probably be Smitty.

Smitty???

I have the Baker 15# pump on a 850hp engine with a bypass regulator. It supplies plenty of fuel, but you can see every pulse of the pump in the pressure gauge. I have a mechanical gauge on the fuel log and an electric gauge in the dash, sender is in log as well. Both needles swing wildly and it destroys the little liquid filled mechanical gauges in short order. I even plumbed in a large spin on fuel filter between the regulator and carbs, thinking it might calm it down a bit. Didn't change a thing, but I guess that since liquids don't compress, I should have known better. Does anyone else have this problem?

"Between the regulator and carbs" ? Shouldn't the return regulator be after the carbs ? Most are.

only problem I have with a buzzer, it it better be friggen loud. Could be a bit hard to hear at 90-100mph with twin 900s, blowers, and wind screaming in your eardrums. A bright led light on the dash, will catch your attention.