Oil pressure drop - need advice
#11
Banned
iTrader: (9)
^^^^^ that ^^^^^ and will add the unknown - after the rebuilds - New coolers ? the past cause for the engine rebuilds was ? so if old coolers were used how clean were they if any internal trash from the engine got in there ? Many will bring their oil coolers to a rad shop for cleaning but it is wise to go with BRAND NEW coolers. Just saying not knowing the unknown here.
I would mechanical gauge the readings as well to see how accurate they are .
I would mechanical gauge the readings as well to see how accurate they are .
Last edited by BUP; 01-12-2018 at 01:36 AM.
#14
Gold Member
Gold Member
Thread Starter
Makes sense.
ECU's were reprogrammed when motors were rebuilt.
Put a mechanical gauge on it and took it to the lake today. The mech gauge indicated about the same as the dash gauge at 3500 RPM. However, above that there was a difference of about 10psi (43psi at WOT). I also noticed my water pressure is too high.
ECU's were reprogrammed when motors were rebuilt.
Put a mechanical gauge on it and took it to the lake today. The mech gauge indicated about the same as the dash gauge at 3500 RPM. However, above that there was a difference of about 10psi (43psi at WOT). I also noticed my water pressure is too high.
Last edited by GNJ; 01-11-2018 at 05:30 PM.
#16
GNJ - I feel your pain. I chased same issue for two seasons. Were there any bearing / crankshaft changes done during rebuild? I tried diff oil pump, diff pan, lowering oil in pan, replacing main / rod bearings, nothing fixed it. Finally got pissed and put new crank in and never had another pressure issue.
#17
Registered
there’s a clear difference between the motors but not sure how you are sustaining 60psi on a factory 500efi if your oil pump hasn’t been upgraded.
Our 500’s start at 60 psi cold and once warmed up don’t run much more than 40-45 all the way up to 5200 rpm. After sustained high rpm running when we back down to idle they run at 20-25 psi. All of what I just said is pretty normal and well documented.
If anything engine 1 looks normal with the exception that it drops to 33 psi at 5000 rpm. Engine 2 looks out of the ordinary from what I have experienced for the past 4-5 yrs of running blue motors.
Our 500’s start at 60 psi cold and once warmed up don’t run much more than 40-45 all the way up to 5200 rpm. After sustained high rpm running when we back down to idle they run at 20-25 psi. All of what I just said is pretty normal and well documented.
If anything engine 1 looks normal with the exception that it drops to 33 psi at 5000 rpm. Engine 2 looks out of the ordinary from what I have experienced for the past 4-5 yrs of running blue motors.
#19
Registered
The factory cooler, block adapter, lines, etc are marginal at best...lots of info on here about that, I would change to a larger aftermarket cooler, block adapter(1/2 NPT) filter mount and and plumb with #10 lines, using a canton thermostat also would be a good idea..
#20
Gold Member
Gold Member
Thread Starter
Thanks EZ for that suggestion. I think it would be a good idea to upgrade all the oil cooling hardware as you mentioned.