525SC Pig in a poke *HELP PLEASE*
 

Looking at a 96 warlock 27 world-class with a straight haul (no step). Boat is a project but comes with a 525SC and what I believe is a early gen bravo 1 (1.5).

I Called mercruiser and serials are what came with the boat from factory, problem is I'm getting a "unique" story about the motor. Owner is not a wrencher ( he pays people to fix his stuff and doesn't check it) and he does not know a lot of the details. He claims it broke the cam "in multiple pieces" while being joy Ridden by an ex GF's son ( can't make this $hit up).

He says he got the whole motor rebuilt as he was not sure what went or didn't go through the motor. Then it sat for 5 years on a pallet not installed in the boat, and no oil ever put in it, he claims he has no receipt "can't find it and can't remember who did the work". I can see fresh sealer on the intake, water pump, dip stick, front cover, so it's had something done, I'm just not sure what.

He claims it's a 200 to 270 HR lake boat except for the 1 possible joy ride in the ocean. The original exhaust manifolds have been pressure tested and have pin hole leaks, he's got new manifolds but I'm wondering how it snapped a cam, especially a forged steel one, if that is in fact what happened, plus did it damage anything else??? Could it have been possible hydro lock from the leaking manifolds or reversion? (I think there cmi's that bolt on to the exhaust manifolds)

I don't know a ton but I'm trying to learn and more importantly I'm trying not to be the one getting poked here and I need to make a decision on the next 24hrs. What can I do quickly and easily myself to test, verify, check the motor and drive is what he's saying it is?

Price is Right if drive and motor are in working order.

Thanks for the help
525SC noob

A 96 boat with 270 some hours, exhaust has leaks and was only in salt one time. Motor not installed and maybe rebuilt, no receipts, next to no nothing.

Look at the boat as-is with a motor that will need to be rebuilt. If motor does not need to be rebuilt after its bought great, but if it does then that's OK as well. Person thought, is if there wasn't something wrong then the motor would be in the boat

Sounds like a cool boat. 525SC is a great motor. You’re always rolling the dice on a used performance boat. If the price is right pull the trigger and have it gone through if needed by a trusted mechanic.

I would do your homework and not rush to make a decision, if you do it might bite you in th A$$, at least for me it does.

Put a camera down the spark plug holes to see what it looks like. Pull the valve covers off and inspect.

The engine is only worth the sum of the parts and you’d be wise to pull the heads and pan off before installing it back in the boat.

An engine with leaking exhaust that sat could have the exhaust valves rusted to the seats. When going to start it, it can wipe the cam lobes. I suppose it could break the cam instead. Lots of cams have cast cores.

I've seen cams break, usually in two pieces. Never seen one break in multiple pieces.

Honestly I've never had a cam brake let alone in multiple places. I coulda sworn all mercs hi perf engines had billit cams. Aren't they the 561 crane cam that was used in multiple sc engines. The Gil's don't surprise me. Ive seen them crack in much less time even in fresh water. I'd just plan on 3k plus in adddition to purchase just to cover yourself at the very least. If the engine is out of the boat I'd have a leak down performed and would be a good time to take a quick look at the top of the pistons.

Something just seems a little off but maybe not.

I have never seen a hyd flat tappet cam like the 525 used just break...not to say has not happened, but ?? without reliable paperwork, and a damn good crystal ball, pulling it apart is the only way you are going to know anything..which is what I would do..

I know I've had bigger cams in mopeds. Those are so easy on valvetrain etc. that's the beauty of them.

You do realize this is like asking a 15 year old boy about the cake recipe that Kroger used when his mom bought his birthday cake there.... Then logging on to Betty Crooker .com and asking if said cake tastes good....

Yeah..theres eggs and flour in the cake....

Either offer what your willing to lose and or recoup selling parts or find someone reputeable to do a compression test, leak down, oil analysis etc....

CAke is good, 525sc's are good...either can be screwed up or go stale...

Im hungry now....

Ya now that I went back and re read the OT there seems to be a lot of unsurities from owner. Many I don't knows and can't remembers it seems. We all have a little brain fog from time to time but this seems a little extreme. Ignorance can leave the door wide open for a can of worms as well as get one off the hook.

Never know could get lucky but more I think about it I would go into it looking at complete refresh at the very least. Engine rebuilt properly with assm lube etc and rotated on occasion doesn't bother me sitting for some time. Even then depending on where it was stored condensation can take its toll on things also.

If you like the boat get an engine rebuild quote and ask the seller if he'll sell you the boat for the asking price minus the rebuild quote. Win-win!

Thanks for all the help.

​​​​​​I put a camera down the cylinders, standard L2453 dished pistons but one had 4-5 small circle dents so I'm thinking that was detonation? So it looks like the machine shop honed the Cylinders and re-used the original pistons, not sure about the rings. My guess would be a hand hone so it'd have to come apart just to spec everything, even if it was done right, check the cam they installed, crank. Heads and valves don't look like they touched them, still have carbon on them.

Blower pulley has a slight forward/backward rock no in/out or side to side play, bearings roll smooth.

Motor is missing sea water pump, and maybe fuel pump, flame arrestor, air filter, 525sc cap, any idea who might have some spare 525 pieces sitting around?

Motor was stored dry, no oil, and not sure if they used assembly lube or not ��

Cylinder are pretty clean but there is a little surface rust on the piston crowns/edges.

What should I budget to go through the motor and spec it, if everything turns out to be ok, and if I do the labor work myself? (I'll have to hire out machine work). I understand I'll have to replace and parts that are not right or machined incorrectly.

Thanks

Does it have the original dominator on it? Those usually ran pig fat. Also ck the size of the pulleys to make sure their stock. Detonation coulda been from some bad fuel also. I have a feeling the last repair was just what was necessary to get back up and running. Just figure on a tear down and refresh and worse case might need new pistons, along with normal refresh. Heads... new valves, possibly springs, surfaced, etc. Not a huge deal but I'd still figure 3-5k for parts and machine work and you assemble. Just depends. It's difficult to go into it assuming minimal work. If it wear me I'd tear it down and drop rotating assembly, heads and block off at machine shop or run it until she's deep six.

Just not sure whats in your tool box but you can do a lot yourself also. Pull pan ck bearings, crank. Spring pressures and on. Pretty basic stuff and not real time consuming but could save you some money in the long run if you decide to chance it. Slight in and out blower pulley play not uncommon but may be time for refresh on that also. You get a chance rotate it and see how it feels and looks with carb off.

The biggest problem with a quick "go thru it" is you end up with the "might as wells" Im going thru this right now. THe 525sc is like 7.1 cr. So I might as well get new pistons and raise the compression to are 8.5... So by the time I have the heads completely redone, I might as well just buy some aftermarket alum heads, ... you know with more compression, I might as well give it a little more cam, and I might as well make it a roller and add some decent lifters... Well Im going to be making more power, so I might as well give the oil some love and get a 12 qt pan, new cooler, and HV pump and a nice billet filter setup with bigger lines.... and why take chances with this, so we will add a bigger fuel pump Then there is the antique ignition system, might as well replace that...

It all adds up, but then again so does the horsepower level....

So take what you think its going to cost and triple it.

Your right phragle. Without a doubt. Probably 90% of us here or more would wanna do exactly what you said. That's the part that makes us who we are as well as broke and sometimes remorse and other times a big smile. Just depends on how disposable income is.

I'm fairly handy and if I don't have the tools I have access to tools or I can buy them, I just don't know what I need to do. Can you post up a list of what I'd need to check?


I do agree on the might as well do's but I just want a good sold running motor that'll do 500Hrs. I don't need to upgrade drives or do a 100 on the river, so though it'll be tough to hold myself back it'll be what's best in the end.

I give you credit but just make sure you do everything by the book and to marine specs. I wish you were closer I'd have you bring it up to our shop and give you a hand. Just remember when in doubt ask. There is no dumb question especially if you don't or haven't done much of this before. Although I seriously like your willingness to learn and want to do but I have to ask if you have a reputable shop nearby you can trust. I'd certainly pull the heads and pull the pan for starters. That would be a good start but just find a place to have your heads gone through including replacing valves even if they ck out fine. List goes on and on but family guy is on right now. Lol... you'll be ok. Just do everything right the first time.

You'll want to measure all your bores also. Borrow or buy a bore gauge and micrometer set. You don't need top of the line. Good to have anyway. Ck on eBay.

It all needs to be checked by someone that knows exactly what they are doing and not by a first time DIY'r.
A 525SC is unlikely to go 500 hrs without being gone through. I did my top end at 340 hrs.
They also need 92 octane fuel. If exhaust has leaks, then it needs new at 2-3k.
They will break a standard bravo drive. I blew an upper apart on flat water with my 525SC.
Plan on it needing 5k to be completely gone through. It may be less but I'd plan on that much at least.