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-   -   Mechanical outdrive indicators (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/352251-mechanical-outdrive-indicators.html)

bigbang 02-11-2018 09:38 AM

Mechanical outdrive indicators
 
Hello-
I have a completely stock 1990 Formula 292 SR1 with twin stock 454 mags, and Bravo 1 drives. I have mechanical indicators on both the drives and the K planes. All work fine except for the port outdrive. When trimming up for shallow water or pulling the boat out, the indicator only moves to about 4 then sticks (yes the drive continues to move). I removed and cleaned the spring and tube at the drive, but it still binds up consistently and won't push the rod out completely. There was some sand and such in there, but the spring looked in good condition. Any advice on correcting this issue? Thanks.

Tinkerer 02-11-2018 04:24 PM

replace all 4 cables or you will be changing them one at a time.
there are numbers on the end of the cables that will tell you what length you need.
Avoid tight bends

Griff 02-11-2018 09:28 PM

Replace the drive indicator cables. I just did mine and it was not fun.
There are some tricks to getting the gauge pointers not fly out, especially when reinstalling.
They pointers are on springs and each one has a tiny hole. You have to put a thin paperclip wire through the holes.

Chances are this is related to your other thread where the rpms are not synced. One drive is probably trimmed a little more/less than the other.

bigbang 02-12-2018 01:35 PM

Thanks for the advice. I guess I wasn't clear on the actual problem. The spring inside the solid stainless canister at the end (at the drive) is what hangs up. I barely need to tap the end of the protruding rod, and it pops to normal position against the drive, I guess I need a method of cleaning/modifying the spring and or the the inside of the canister for smoother operation. Also, Griff, syncing is not related to this problem, as I already confirmed the drives were completely in and equal during analysis. Thanks again.

Tinkerer 02-12-2018 06:57 PM

It is the cable that is binding. when you tap on the ram you are just freeing it up. Remove the ram and see how easily you can move the cable in and out.

bigbang 02-12-2018 07:51 PM

When I removed the end cap, the spring had not fully extended because it was bound (ie. was compressed not fully releasing). After I cleaned the spring and ram and inspected the inside of the tube, it worked briefly before binding again, so it seems like the inside of the end tube or the spring itself needs help.

Griff 02-13-2018 02:05 AM

Disconnect the actuators from the cables. The inner cables should move VERY easily.

dcb 02-13-2018 09:24 AM

As has been stated - cables are probably bad. Have experienced the same problem several times and new cables fixed it. When you disassemble the acutator, make sure the spring is not broken.

F-2 Speedy 02-13-2018 09:36 AM

Ive seen the plunger distort and bind in the tube

payuppsucker 02-13-2018 04:50 PM


Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy (Post 4610018)
Ive seen the plunger distort and bind in the tube

Yep, what bonehead said. I was having this same issue on my Formula. R&R cables, no help. Ended up removing the plungers and chucking them up in a drill and used scotchbrite to remove some material from them. Worked for a couple years but now it's back to the SOS, but not as frequently.

distantthunder 02-13-2018 06:08 PM

I had the same issue on my 292, replaced the indicator cables. Found the applicable replacements on Amazon. The part number is stamped on the cable. It is less grief to do them all at once. I started by replacing one then the next weekend, the other drive cable snapped so I did the other three. Used the old cable to fish the new cable up to the helm.

bigbang 02-15-2018 10:00 AM

Yeah, I'll start with plunger, thanks for the advice.

F-2 Speedy 02-15-2018 10:09 AM

just unscrew it from the end of the cable, roll it on a flat surface and see if it wobbles.

mcollinstn 02-20-2018 07:56 PM

The cables develop kinked places in the bend between the transom fitting and the actuator housing - especially if the boat is stored with the drive turned to one side.
As people said - it's EITHER the black plastic actuator rod binding in the housing, OR it's a kink in the cable. If you look closely for a kink, you will see it. While the housing is apart for you to check the plunger, hold the cable in the exact position it is in when it binds and move the cable in and out fully. There should be hardly any drag, and whatever drag there is, it shoudl be consistent and not have a tight spot.

Cables are not expensive, and are not that HARD to swap out, but chances are your boat has 27 zillion zip ties, electrical tape, and rusty breadsack ties holding wiring and crap to the cable bundle. Every one of those will have to be cut loose.

MC


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