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JE SRP -3cc dome pistons should do the trick to get the compression ratio close to 8.25
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Originally Posted by Griff
(Post 4615858)
JE SRP -3cc dome pistons should do the trick to get the compression ratio close to 8.25
Here is JE's SRP pistons, I'm starting at 4.25" +.030" but what is the compression height & the stroke so I can pick the right one? Thanks |
Anybody have any experience or opinions on Comp's 11-409-8 (224/[email protected]", 537/547, 113* LSA) with a -3CC domed piston at8.25-8.5:1?
Or would it be better to have comp custom grind something like a 731/741? Thanks |
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Originally Posted by Mohavvalley
(Post 4615903)
From your response Griff, I'm assuming the best way to raise compression is increasing dome volume or piston height?
Here is JE's SRP pistons, I'm starting at 4.25" +.030" but what is the compression height & the stroke so I can pick the right one? Thanks The 139477 has the same comp distance as the stock L2453 pistons https://www.summitracing.com/parts/srp-139477-8 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-l2453f30 |
If youre replacing pistons, i would go with an actual blower piston. Where the top ring is down further, better pins, etc. JE makes a forced induction flat top piston off the shelf for your application.
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I wouldnt bother with arp rod bolts. By the time you get done rebuilding/resizing those rods, with new bolts, youll be at almost the cost of a set of brand Eagle/scat H beams, or for a few bucks more, some molnar rods. And youll have a much better rod with a floating pin rather than a press fit. Ebay the old rods to some car guy who thinks the GM dimple rods were the best thing since sliced bread for 100 bucks.
the cam 79formula posted, works well in this combo. upgrade the stock balancer. Powerbond makes a nice unit thats affordable. if staying flat tappet, get the crower cam saver lifters with the oiling groove. check the rear bearings in the blower , the seals leak and fuel gets in the rear oil reservoir. Get a good valve job done on the heads. Worn guides lead to valves that dont seal well or transfer heat well. Inconel or not, they need to seal or they will burn. a 30 deg backcut on the intake valves is cheap, and picks up a good amoubt of airflow at lower lifts |
Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4615933)
I wouldnt bother with arp rod bolts. By the time you get done rebuilding/resizing those rods, with new bolts, youll be at almost the cost of a set of brand Eagle/scat H beams, or for a few bucks more, some molnar rods. And youll have a much better rod with a floating pin rather than a press fit. Ebay the old rods to some car guy who thinks the GM dimple rods were the best thing since sliced bread for 100 bucks.
the cam 79formula posted, works well in this combo. upgrade the stock balancer. Powerbond makes a nice unit thats affordable. if staying flat tappet, get the crower cam saver lifters with the oiling groove. check the rear bearings in the blower , the seals leak and fuel gets in the rear oil reservoir. Get a good valve job done on the heads. Worn guides lead to valves that dont seal well or transfer heat well. Inconel or not, they need to seal or they will burn. a 30 deg backcut on the intake valves is cheap, and picks up a good amoubt of airflow at lower lifts |
Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
(Post 4615940)
I thought the pink rods were the cat's Azzz
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4615948)
buddy i work with freaked out when i told him I gave a set of them away. He was like "those rods are amazing!" ...good rod , but cmon
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