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Originally Posted by Panther
(Post 4637482)
Had a similar problem and it turned out to be a brand new Hardin marine crossover had a casting flaw and the hole inside the crossover was only about 3/8" as opposed to 1" ID it's supposed to be. They replaced it and sent a new one...engine is cold now....
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I would not buy GLM products. One is very hard for warranty claims --- 2 is GLM = GOOD LUCK MARINE - that is the industry standard for GLM products among marine industry persons.
Have ask was it ever determine what the OP exact set up and parts used here ? Very hard to pin point any correct answers without knowing. We all can throw darts without knowing exactly the set up and parts. |
The setup is as follows:
Hardin stainless crossover and thermostat housing, no thermostat, restrictor plate with 1/2" hole instead of thermostat. Stainless headers (CMI, I think?). https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2d638ddf6f.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b603026835.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e4a5d0dbeb.jpg |
All your water is bypassing the engine going through the bypass. I had to add a flow restrictor to mine. I 3D printed some restrictors and then I drill them out a little bit to achieve proprer pressure. A piece of stainless round stock with a 1/4" whole worked on my last setup. I put them right before the thermostat housing (arrow pointing) and drill them out with a cordless drill on the water. This is the setup on my new engines this year. I also have them in the back of my intakes that feed water to my exhaust. I have about 2-3 psi at idle and 20 psi at top RPM.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1fb8ddd78b.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3589851ad5.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7e584b4508.jpg |
Also, I'd install a couple high flow 140° thermostats with a couple holes in them.
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the water will always follow the path with the least amount of resistance.it is easier to go through the bypass than through the block,espically the reducing washer in the t stat housing.
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Originally Posted by Rookie
(Post 4637558)
All your water is bypassing the engine going through the bypass. I had to add a flow restrictor to mine. I 3D printed some restrictors and then I drill them out a little bit to achieve proprer pressure. A piece of stainless round stock with a 1/4" whole worked on my last setup. I put them right before the thermostat housing (arrow pointing) and drill them out with a cordless drill on the water. This is the setup on my new engines this year. I also have them in the back of my intakes that feed water to my exhaust. I have about 2-3 psi at idle and 20 psi at top RPM.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1fb8ddd78b.jpg |
Update: I installed restrictors in the crossover bypass hoses. This brought the effective diameter down from approximately 3/4" to 1/2". On a test run today, I saw NO wild fluctuations of water temperature. At idle the temps are 125-130, and when running at 3500-4000 rpm for a few minutes the temps were 150-160 (oil temps 210-220).
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Update.
Ran the boat a few times this weekend. I am seeing water temps higher than previously reported. I saw 180-185 on one motor, with oil temp of 220. Other motor had water temp of 160-165, with oil temp of 200. This was running at 4200-4400 rpm. So I am not sure if these restrictors are the right way to go? |
What is you water pressure at speed? And where is it taking the pressure at? Cooler, block, intake manifold?
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