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Bravo 1 won’t go into reverse

Old 09-02-2018, 11:57 AM
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Default Bravo 1 won’t go into reverse

so I removed back cover, seen that I need to look for the hole being out of shape. Two things the hole looks pretty good. Does the spring wear out? Oh can I shift this into reverse to if it moves?
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Old 09-02-2018, 01:19 PM
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Need more info as to what is going on.
Your saying with the motor running, you can go from neutral to forward and back to neutral, but it will not go in reverse?

The spring detent ball just provides a feel and hold for neutral, and would not have much issue with reverse.
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Old 09-02-2018, 01:38 PM
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First....thanks for replying!
thursday I drop in go through normal start up and hit the key and nothing. Thinking it’s in gear I went to move it and the shifter was tight. Push forward was normal operation tried 5o pull in reverse and could barely get past neutral. Went to local marine shop and was directed to detent. Got everything apart this morning and spring looks good. Was told the cover hole for detent can get oversized which causes it to stick. What I don’t is how long spring should be or how loose the detent in in the hole.
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Old 09-02-2018, 02:54 PM
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Bravos are not meant to be shifted when the engine is not running. The neutral safety switch is part of the shifter and the actual outdrive has nothing to with it.
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Old 09-02-2018, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Griff View Post
Bravos are not meant to be shifted when the engine is not running. The neutral safety switch is part of the shifter and the actual outdrive has nothing to with it.
Agree, never shift a Bravo when motor is not running unless absolutely necessary

Going to need 2 people, one on the throttle and one at the slave solenoid. Put muffs on and have water supplied.

Leave key in OFF position, take and jump across the top terminals of the slave solenoid. When this happens the motor will crank, and having the person on the throttle applying pressure to move throttle into neutral. It should only take less then one rotation for it to go into neutral. Once in neutral, then you can try to start in your regular way.

Turn ignition ON, and if it will not crank, hold key to start and very slightly move the throttle a tad forward or reverse. Your not trying to change gears, just get the neutral safety switch where it will crank
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Old 09-02-2018, 09:09 PM
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Your shift cable may be going bad. I have had the cable that connects to the drive rub on the engine coupler - this wears a hole in the cable allowing the inner wire to push out the side.
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Old 09-02-2018, 09:43 PM
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I would like to thank all of you for the help.
I took the advice from a local marine service shop. That’s why I went the direction I did. So tomorrow I’ll put it back together.
alldodge.... this is a dual control setup . Do as stated just move the shifter for neutral to catch? Now is this because something got out wack? Or do I need a new slave solenoid?

guys I can’t help with ton of knowledge on boats, but I do work for whirlpool and can pass some discount savings on appliances. Just need name and email and I’ll send you a pass to look to buy.

ishould change my name Boss272.... lol

Last edited by Force265; 09-02-2018 at 09:46 PM. Reason: Adding name
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Old 09-02-2018, 10:29 PM
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Did you check your kill switch??
Do you have 12+ volts on the guage??
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:28 AM
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alldodge.... this is a dual control setup . Do as stated just move the shifter for neutral to catch? Now is this because something got out wack? Or do I need a new slave solenoid?
Were all trying to figure out what the issue is but were getting pieces of the puzzle as we ask more questions. If neither of the motors will crank then do the gauges turn ON when the key is turned to ON?? If only one motor will not crank then as stated above you may need to get the single throttle handle into neutral position
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