Me to, he was a great guy, some of his stuff was pretty harsh for the marine world.

Not saying that's it's simple or that I know that much about it, but if you compare initial, .050 and .200 numbers you can see why some cams will make more power than others, idle differently with the same .050 numbers, and beat the hell out of the rest of the valve train.

I ran them both ways only because I trashed a lifter bore when a lifter came apart. I always wondered how much it weakened the block boring it out for the bushing. I have to think the bronze would wear faster than the cast iron, can it hold the lifter as stable being a softer material. I was running 350 at the seat and 1000 open at one time without bushings, I would rather run the .903 lifter if I had the choice. I'm not an engine builder so this is just my opinion.

The key is the Right guy, not some dweeb reading a computer screen that never saw the inside of an engine.

I never tried them, can't figure out how they don't overheat and gall up.

Isky EZ-Roll Lifter;
The design differences between a bushing — Isky refers to it as a “solid bearing” but we’ll use bushing as it’s a reference more familiar to engine builders today — and needle bearing are simple, but the pros and cons of each aren’t always so obvious. The needle bearing wraps the axle with numerous tiny cylindrical rollers that are well-suited for reducing friction because the line point of contact is so thin along the length of the needle. However, needles can suffer surface wear and flat spots if the loads are too heavy for such a small contact area. With the bushing design, the axle shaft does not touch the bushing shell. Instead, there is a film of oil or hydraulic wedge that carries the load of the lifter. With proper oil pressure and the correct lubricant, the bushing can not only last longer, but by spreading the load over a greater area of the axle, the lifter can support higher spring pressures.