|
509” bbc dart pro 1 aluminum heads 225 intake runner, slight intake porting (gasket matched, bowl work) unshrouded valves and polished combustion chambers, full exhaust runner porting. 8.2:1 static compression, blower shop billet 3 lobe non stripped 871, blower shop intercooler, Nickerson 980cfm 4150 carbs, msd ignition, imco powerflow manifolds with dry to tip tails. 25’ eliminator Daytona 8-850hp range target and 6200rpm desired max can be plus or minus a little. |
Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 4653977)
a 509 with a decent head&cam package and an 8.71 with a pair of 850 carbs will easily make 850 reliable hp.if starting fresh with no parts go with a 540,if you already have a 4 in stroke crank go 509.the power output is pretty close on both combinations.
|
Originally Posted by Daytona25
(Post 4670639)
You guys suggest solid roller but nobody can give me hrs per maintenance and or parts replacements with solid roller setup??? Not sure how solid is more reliable, because you wont break a lifter? But it`s ok to pound the $hit out of the valvetrain with a solid set up? I like my hydraulics to cushion my valve train I also like shocks on my cars instead of a solid rod. find that everything stays together longer and the seats don`t fall out of the car from the vibrations. |
Hydraulic has been my plan because my exhaust doesn’t allow checking valve lash easily, planned on a crane 771 or 651 cam but looking for more insight on which would suit me best?? Also what lifters are the best for an aggressive hyd roller setup meaning 6200rpm stability?? Have not ruled out a solid roller setup if that’s the only way to get stability and reliability above 6000 rpm?? |
Originally Posted by Daytona25
(Post 4670863)
Hydraulic has been my plan because my exhaust doesn’t allow checking valve lash easily, planned on a crane 771 or 651 cam but looking for more insight on which would suit me best?? Also what lifters are the best for an aggressive hyd roller setup meaning 6200rpm stability?? Have not ruled out a solid roller setup if that’s the only way to get stability and reliability above 6000 rpm?? |
Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
(Post 4670864)
I think you answered you own question, and I agree with ICDP......
|
Im not a cam expert they have all been run off this site..:D... I run whats been proven to work, maybe you should pose those questions to the manufacturer, like Crane and Isky. I ran solid lifters on drag cars and its a PITA cant imagine doing it in a boat.....jmo......
|
I know the crane is proven to work, and be reliable so I’m heading that direction!! Just didn’t know which one of those too would fit my build best?? But I’ll call a few cam manufacturers and see what they say, just know they tend to be conservative most of the time.....figured maybe someone on here could steer me in the right direction |
I don't think hydraulic lifters work like a shock absorber it can actually go the other way bleeding off while the valve is closing there are a lot of trucked out there with solid rollers in them with no issues that go 200k on a valve adjustment. I have herd plenty of guys having problems with hydraulic lifters making noise and replacing them with solid lifters with tight lash. To each is there own on this. Think lunati has a voodo series that where made by Harold from ultra dyne.
|
You may want to talk to one of the senior techs at Comp Cams, Bullet, whatever brand you like, they could tell you what you should run to meet your goals. I'm guessing the price difference between a shelf cam and custom is a better core and you get closer to what you want. The solid roller lifter with high pressure pin oiling last a long time even with a lot of low RPM idling. Good springs, Pac or similar quality with the right pressures and my choice, stainless shaft rockers would get you where you want to be. Of coarse this is only my opinion, not gospel.
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:08 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.