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Battery Cables
There are a few threads on this already but I can't seem to come to any decisions. I'm trying to figure out what gauge to use for my battery cables and hoping someone here can shed some light. Cable manufactures need to know starter amp draw. My research shows it depends on how much the motor draws, etc... I have a moderate compression 10.5/1 small block chevy motors making 652hp each, 3hp mini starters... I'm reading it might be in neighborhood of 250amp max? No real clue though. All I find is that "It depends". I'm not even planning on having a stereo system as I won't hear it over the dry exhaust anyway.
I also read on this board that "I always use 4/0 to be sure." This is BIG wire. I'm fine with using it if it is needed but I'm going to have $600 in battery cables making them myself! I already purchased crimper, etc... as I do want the cables to be custom length. I took some very high level measurements to just tell me how much cable to order. I'm sure I can shorten these but wanted to have more than less when ordering. It is a pretty standard 2 motor, 2 battery setup with batteries in engine compartment/bilge so nothing out of the ordinary. Do I really want to use 4/0? Any recommendations would be helpful. What has worked for you guys? |
I just did this a few weeks ago, replaced all the battery cables. I figure mine were original but I`m not sure.. either way they seemed to be undersized.
I went 1/0 . I think that`s plenty. According to the test sheet that came with my starters 300amps is what it pulls. I ordered the cables from https://www.batterycablesusa.com/ came professionally crimped and sealed. I measured everything and gave myself and extra 1' or so incase I was off. $300 for everything. Came 2 days later . My old cables were ugly. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...76ad6d6db9.jpg old vs. new https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...36cd47748a.jpg Good luck. |
I also don`t buy the "you need tinned for Marine" fairy tale.
Cars dont use tinned and they sure see a lot more water/salt/moisture etc then my boat ever will. The matter of tinned wire being the only type accepted as "marine grade" is rather interesting. Ancor was perhaps the first vendor to the boating market to supply tinned copper wire and label it as "marine grade." It was a brilliant marketing move because now many people think that tinned wire is the only legitimate wire to use on boats. In fact, many boaters are of the belief that the American Boat and Yacht Council mandates the use of tinned wire in its electrical standards. Well, this whole matter falls into the maritime legend category. First, the ABYC does not mandate the use of tinned wire its standards—never has. Second, the vast majority of production boat builders still use un-tinned wire in their electrical systems. Is tinned wire better? Well, it is more corrosion resistant, but the truth is, the un-tinned wire has been used for years and provides a more-than-adequate service life in most cases. Tinned Wire The trick to enhancing the corrosion resistance with un-tinned wire is simple: Be sure that the terminations on any cabling in your boat are hermetically sealed. Standard crimp connectors don’t do the job. They leave the wire ends exposed to moisture, and eventually corrosion will begin at the terminal and migrate into the conductor as the moisture tracks up the wire under the insulation via capillary action. By using heat-shrink crimp terminals or adhesive-lined heat-shrink tubing on conventional crimp connectors, you can effectively seal the ends of all the wire on your boat. Without exposure to moisture or salt air, the un-tinned wire will last as long as the tinned. (A good online source for heat shrink products is index.) To determine if your wiring has been affected by moisture, cut off the terminal on a suspicious wire and strip back about a half-inch of insulation. If the wire is black, and not shiny pink, then corrosion has begun to migrate along the conductor. You’ll need to strip back the wiring until you find clean, pink copper. Usually this requires stripping back no more than an inch or so of insulation. Snip off the corroded wire and install a new terminal as described above. |
Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
(Post 4659079)
I also don`t buy the "you need tinned for Marine" fairy tale.
Cars dont use tinned and they sure see a lot more water/salt/moisture etc then my boat ever will. Most boats will be well served with that gauge sized too. |
sized of the cables ( diameter of the internal wires ) is also determined by the length of their runs. the smaller the cable the more electrical resistance for current / voltage to move thru.
I would not use anything smaller than 2 to begin with for battery power(s) and ground(s) -- even for the short runs |
Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
(Post 4659078)
I just did this a few weeks ago, replaced all the battery cables. I figure mine were original but I`m not sure.. either way they seemed to be undersized.
I went 1/0 . I think that`s plenty. According to the test sheet that came with my starters 300amps is what it pulls. I ordered the cables from https://www.batterycablesusa.com/ came professionally crimped and sealed. I measured everything and gave myself and extra 1' or so incase I was off. $300 for everything. Came 2 days later . My old cables were ugly. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...76ad6d6db9.jpg old vs. new https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...36cd47748a.jpg Good luck. |
2/0 is over kill, its not a flux capacitor you're wiring, might want to rethink it, might have issues getting the 2/0 lugs to fit in some areas, 3/8 stud on the starter, whats the hole diameter on these 2/0 ends
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F-69 Slowly is kinda right. That`s a big wire.
I had to make a few changes and redrill some openings (1/0 is pretty large) to run the 1/0 since everything was designed around 2 gauge but if you`re rerigging maybe its not a big deal? I needed 8 wires total. 4 per engine. 2 neutrals and the rest are all positive. Battery USA is great , fast shipping and the quality of work is fantastic. |
2 and 2/0 are different in size. 2/0 is big and over kill unless very very long runs.
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just follow this to make it so easy per run. Its the ABYC / Marine standard. Back when dealers installed which ever engine package of choice and believe me we did alot back in the 80's and thru early 90's. This is exactly what was followed per ABYC / marine standards. It still follows today. This pic I posted was taken from our installation guide for Mercruiser. Anyways pic below https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b78d1ba5fb.jpg
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that page was from 1989 back when installing engines was the norm for many dealers. Notice it still reports NO WING NUT CONNECTIONS even for carb engines. More info --- for EFI engines that is one of the worst things one can do for battery connection is use wing nuts.
the guide lists solder for the battery terminal / connection --- we do not use solder anymore period or I should say I do not nor will. |
Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
(Post 4659156)
2/0 is over kill, its not a flux capacitor you're wiring, might want to rethink it, might have issues getting the 2/0 lugs to fit in some areas, 3/8 stud on the starter, whats the hole diameter on these 2/0 ends
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Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4659197)
just follow this to make it so easy per run. Its the ABYC / Marine standard. Back when dealers installed which ever engine package of choice and believe me we did alot back in the 80's and thru early 90's. This is exactly what was followed per ABYC / marine standards. It still follows today. This pic I posted was taken from our installation guide for Mercruiser. Anyways pic below https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b78d1ba5fb.jpg
I'm re-rigging completely so no real restrictions. Just weight and ease of managing the big wires. 4/0, which was suggested on this forum (not this thread) is HUGE! I guess I'm going with 2/0 and I should be quite safe. I'll minimize the lengths as much as possible. Appreciate all of the insights. |
All my battery cables are 2. It works great. |
Originally Posted by Crude Intentions
(Post 4659355)
All my battery cables are 2. It works great. |
All mine were 2 . I had to use use both batteries to start one engine. It would struggle just using one. But cig put a parallel switch in there to temporarily connect the 2 batteries while cranking so it worked fine for years.
I`ve always had started issues thou, my flywheels are now stripped in a couple places .hoping the wire upgrade will help . |
I made my own. We own a few really good professional crimp tools at our shop. I used 1/0 tinned marine grade cable and tinned marine grade terminals. |
Originally Posted by vintage chromoly
(Post 4659824)
I made my own. We own a few really good professional crimp tools at our shop. I used 1/0 tinned marine grade cable and tinned marine grade terminals. Thanks to all for input. |
Ive been custom making my own for yrs.
You will love the looks of the finished product. Crimp tools are too cheap to not do it. Will now match the quality of the rest of your project. I use good heat shrink too. It is thick tubing w/sealer in it that flows once heated. Im thinking Im going to end up w/my batteries in the cabin which I dont like. W/all the extra fuel Ill now be carrying, and that addition being aft, and the garage Ill now have where the motor used to be........., and all the crap that will find its way in there......., yikes : ) I think our folding bikes are 30+ lbs a piece.
Originally Posted by ttrm007
(Post 4660550)
I got all the stuff and went with 2/0. Yes, quite big. If I was ordering again after seeing these I'd go with 1/0. Hey, these cables match everying else I have done the the boat -overkill. Go big or go home. Now I need some more horsepower to make up for the 50 lbs of battery cable!
Thanks to all for input. |
i would still go with tin plated on anything,when you see older cable that the brass has turned dark/green even up into the wire where you wouldn't think that oxygen would get to, also don't skimp in the heat shrink, prowire on ebay sels the buttery quality stuff in smaller quantities
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