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502 MPI build up
Last ride this season just right back at the harbor i lost a valve seat. Now i am looking for opinions what to do. The motor sits in a 26 Hustler and did 70mls w/ stainless marine exhaust. I am looking for 80. Had a look in older threads, it seems like i can get 500hp with riping down the intake dividers, cam, ecu, exhaust.... I don't think this will do 80 mls in the hustler. Means i'm looking for 525-550hp i think. The big question is should i do all this with a 18 years old motor or better go with a 525 efi? What could i add to the 502 wich makes sense? Make it a 540? 7.5% more displacement is not much, even if you look for hp in the 5000 rpm area. Heads? Are Dart, Brodix, AFR... a big improvement? Mine is not in the best shape anyway but can be repaired as well. I could open up the throttle body a little bit more if this is a part which makes sense.... tia Andy |
(585) 654-8583 bob madara will answer all your questions.
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I would call Eddy Young as he’s super helpful and actually builds engines. |
Calculator says you need 540hp. Replicating a 525 and improving some things is a good idea. Smitty (articfriends) modifies those intakes too. |
You would need to budget around 35k to build a 540 or buy a 525 efi. or rebuild what you have and go boat
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Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
(Post 4660879)
You would need to budget around 35k to build a 540 or buy a 525 efi. or rebuild what you have and go boat
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Originally Posted by Baja Rooster
(Post 4660830)
I would call Eddy Young as he’s super helpful and actually builds engines. |
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My father had 502/415 mpi He bought Dart short blocks, kept his heads and EFI, innovation dynoed both motors 520 hp and 519 hp call Ateco, do what my father did or consider the choice in my prior post |
35k is way too much. I mean it doesn´t make sense to try to duplicate a 525 wich is appr. $15k when i have to spend a lot in my old motor. I could sell my 502 for 2k, add 13k and get a 525. Or i rebuild my 502 and try to get close to the 540hp.
540hp seems to be right for 80mls. I totaly agree. If i put on a double 58mm trottle body, rip down the intake diverters, put in a 525 or similar cam, pistons wich add litte bit more compression rate (we have 95 fuel), a little porting, ecu reprograming, what could i expect? What would be the next steps? Heads? 540? |
The key differences are the heads, cam and exhaust. I believe the intake is the same. 525s have edelbrock heads. There are better aftermarket options. Cam is similar to crane 741 which is good for what you’re doing. You should skip the 525 exhaust and use the thunder n lightning. |
If you stray very far from stock add in another $1500+ or so for redoing the oil cooler and fuel systems. I’d freshen up the short block to marine specs, have some good heads built, massage the intake system, and enjoy boating for another decade or two. |
forged internals, cam, heads, prochager/whipple....done
oh yea and a pile of bravos to swap the broken ones lol |
Originally Posted by hogie roll
(Post 4660881)
I suspect you could do it much cheaper. |
without heads i would not get the 540hp, right?
As i asked... ( double 58mm trottle body, rip down the intake diverters, put in a 525 or similar cam, pistons wich add litte bit more compression rate (we have 95 fuel), a little porting, ecu reprograming ) what do you think i could get out of it? |
I saw 560 hp in dyno trim from a 502 w modded intake, 68 mm tb, 731 cam and lots of tuning on 89 octane. Iron heads w mild porting. Tpis bores throttle body from twin 60 mm stock to 68 mm for 270$ btw
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I saw the Tpis TB, thanks! Perhaps a friend can do this job for me. Did you use the original 088 heads or aftermarket?
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Originally Posted by articfriends
(Post 4661111)
I saw 560 hp in dyno trim from a 502 w modded intake, 68 mm tb, 731 cam and lots of tuning on 89 octane. Iron heads w mild porting. Tpis bores throttle body from twin 60 mm stock to 68 mm for 270$ btw
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I would bet you will need at least 600hp to go from 70mph to 80mph
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Originally Posted by Bang Bang
(Post 4661120)
I saw the Tpis TB, thanks! Perhaps a friend can do this job for me. Did you use the original 088 heads or aftermarket?
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Originally Posted by Griff
(Post 4661132)
I would bet you will need at least 600hp to go from 70mph to 80mph
I´m more and more ok with going forward with a 540 rotation kit and bigger heads. Next questions will be do i need a forged crank, how much intake volume should the heads have, any opinions wich rotation kit, wich heads would work? Saw used heads mit 345 cc but think thats too much... |
Originally Posted by hogie roll
(Post 4661143)
make sure you understand the difference between dyno trim and in your boat. Highly dependent on your exhaust manifolds and how many pumps you hang off it. |
Originally Posted by Bang Bang
(Post 4661265)
i don´t think i need 600hp. with a wasted 415hp plus stainless marine exhaust it made 70, for 80 i think 530 could be enough, could be 550 on the dyno with dry exhaust and no sea water pump.
I´m more and more ok with going forward with a 540 rotation kit and bigger heads. Next questions will be do i need a forged crank, how much intake volume should the heads have, any opinions wich rotation kit, wich heads would work? Saw used heads mit 345 cc but think thats too much... |
Originally Posted by articfriends
(Post 4661482)
I recently tested my muffled dyno headers against imco powerflows w short risers on a 500efi with bigger tb other wise stock. At 5200 the powerflows gave up 14 hp, at 5400 gave up 21 hp, gained 10 ft lbs tq in midrange below the peak. So we take 20 hp off for decent marine exhaust and another 25 or 30 for no raw water pump, pulleys, hotter intake air in boat etc that 560 quickly turns into about 500/510. Surprisingly a set of Eddie marine manifolds with 19" long risers out performed my imcos in every way, still didn't come close to muffled headers. Open header vs the power flows, we were down 31 hp at 5200 and about 38 at 5400, I cant run open headers here often as I havent built muffler stacks yet plus it inflates the numbers so much there not realistic. I actually bought a set of 1 7/8 headers for dyno to try soon to see if I can pick up torque and kill a little hp over my normal ones so I can mimic what a typical set of performance manifolds do, haven't tryed them yet.
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Great info. Would you consider muffled headers equivalent to wet exhaust or close to it? |
Originally Posted by Baja Rooster
(Post 4661491)
Great info. Would you consider muffled headers equivalent to wet exhaust or close to it? |
Since the collector is the most important aspect of the headers, the mufflers are an extension of it...so, it depends on the design of the mufflers.
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Originally Posted by Baja Rooster
(Post 4661491)
Great info. Would you consider muffled headers equivalent to wet exhaust or close to it? |
Originally Posted by articfriends
(Post 4661482)
I recently tested my muffled dyno headers against imco powerflows w short risers on a 500efi with bigger tb other wise stock. At 5200 the powerflows gave up 14 hp, at 5400 gave up 21 hp, gained 10 ft lbs tq in midrange below the peak. So we take 20 hp off for decent marine exhaust and another 25 or 30 for no raw water pump, pulleys, hotter intake air in boat etc that 560 quickly turns into about 500/510. Surprisingly a set of Eddie marine manifolds with 19" long risers out performed my imcos in every way, still didn't come close to muffled headers. Open header vs the power flows, we were down 31 hp at 5200 and about 38 at 5400, I cant run open headers here often as I havent built muffler stacks yet plus it inflates the numbers so much there not realistic. I actually bought a set of 1 7/8 headers for dyno to try soon to see if I can pick up torque and kill a little hp over my normal ones so I can mimic what a typical set of performance manifolds do, haven't tryed them yet.
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Originally Posted by sutphen 30
(Post 4661596)
you should try some doug thorley tri y headers,best of both worlds.
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Originally Posted by Diamond Dave
(Post 4661121)
How much did just the throttle body alter the tuning in your case I don't recall if you mentioned it specifically?
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Seems like all over 4500 the TB is too small. But you are right, all parts wich flow air have to be calculated to fit together. At this time i will go with the old FA, 68mm TB, worked intake, better cam, reprogramed ecu, better pistons and stainless marine exhaust with o2 sensor. I‘m actual not sure if i should go 540 and new bigger heads. |
The old heads look too wasted to re use them. I get some Dart Pro 1 heads.
How would you go forward, with 509 or a cast 540 set. A cast 540 set would only be a few hundrets more that the stock 509, but cast.... I´m going to order the Crane 168741, will the stainless marine exhaust work without reversion or do i need another exhaust system? I had the stainless marine exhaust for 14 years of saltwater operation, the stainless steal riser are ok, i only need the lower parts. But if there could be reversion i would go with anything other. I drive switchable silencer endtips. I may not make too much noise in my harbor and due to the stellings extension box i do not have an under water exhaust through the drive. |
Originally Posted by articfriends
(Post 4661760)
I bought some 1 7/8 vette headers to try, thinking they will bump bump up tq close to what manifolds made and knock off some top end hp, if they dont, ill buy some other ones. Its a big pia for me to run wet exhaust, we killed a 02 sensor w the Eddie manifolds too. Trying to find something thats as close as possible to numbers manifold made.
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I would love to, but there is a 75db restriction in our bay. |
Does Bob Madera still make a set or cams for this motors? I gave him an email but got no response.
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