Offshoreonly.com - low oil temp

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- - low oil temp (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/358123-low-oil-temp.html)

Rookie

12-15-2018 09:10 PM

These are also nice to place on areas of concern.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PAPER-THERM...tz4A:rk:4:pf:0

Griff

12-16-2018 01:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gunradd (Post 4663967)

Took it out tonight and after a hard run I was able to get 190 out of one engine. Other engine showed nothing. Felt the oil filters and they where about the same temp so looks like I need to trouble shoot an indicating problem. Pretty simple system I’ll get into that tomorrow. So when the water temp comes up everything should be good.

Rookie it it takes the oil temp right at the oil filter housing so I would say before the cooler.

190* is fine as long as you are not getting any milky condensation in the oil.
I have been told that the sender location you are using often does not read well.

ph1971

12-16-2018 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rookie (Post 4663975)

I use to get around ~170 max on the Scarab with same engines and running 6000+RPM. I Had 2 senders 1 before and 1 after cooler, just toggled between senders. This is so I would know the delta before and after the cooler to see if it is doing it's a job and what the temperature of the oil that is being delivered to the bearings, I don't need t know how hot my oil pan gets. I run 160°F sandwich thermostats. I think it's a pretty sweet simple setup.

Wouldn’t the before cooler temp and the oil pan temp be very close to the same? My sender is currently in the pan. Should it be moved? Where is yours before the cooler? Thanks

underpsi68

12-16-2018 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ph1971 (Post 4664006)

Wouldn’t the before cooler temp and the oil pan temp be very close to the same? My sender is currently in the pan. Should it be moved? Where is yours before the cooler? Thanks

IMO yes

This is a hotly debated topic like which oil to use.

I prefer to see what the oil temp is coming out of the engine (oil pan, pre cooler). I want to know how hot the oil is getting. If you had a sensor after that cooler that would be helpful to see how well the cooler is working.

My sensor is mounted in the oil filter pad, works great.

Just my. 02

getrdunn

12-16-2018 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ph1971 (Post 4664006)

Wouldn’t the before cooler temp and the oil pan temp be very close to the same? My sender is currently in the pan. Should it be moved? Where is yours before the cooler? Thanks

i can't answer for Rookie however you'll get as many different temp readings as there are locations for senders. I completely understand the before and after switchable set up. I've mounted in pan just cause it seems to be the hottest readings I've gotten over the years auto/marine. The oil pump is pumping a matter of inches from the sender. I think as long as your using good sender and gauge and paying attention is key. Seems like full force was going to to a switchable set up with one before cooler and one in pan if I remember corrrectly. Oil stats are key also.

blue thunder

12-16-2018 02:49 PM

The good news is your temp problem is on the easy side to address. Too hot can be much more of a challenge. If you get the gauge working correctly and are still having low oil temps when sea temp is hot, one way you can raise oil temp easily is to raise engine water temp (assuming you have room). I suspect you will find your oil temps to be ok though. I personally like 190f after a run as long as no creamed cheese develops.

Baja Rooster

12-16-2018 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ph1971 (Post 4664006)

Wouldn’t the before cooler temp and the oil pan temp be very close to the same? My sender is currently in the pan. Should it be moved? Where is yours before the cooler? Thanks

I don’t have much personal experience on the matter, but I have seen countless threads argue it both ways with no definite conclusion. I think Teague runs his temp sender in the pans? I myself oversized the oil cooling system and when I got milky oil on the valve cover I put a thermostat on it and it cleared right up.

Going more of the redneck way, if you have good hot oil pressure and it doesn’t smell burnt then you’re good there. If you’re getting moisture in the valve covers then you need to adjust something. But I feel the most important duty of the gauge is tell you if something changes. If the oil is always at X temp and suddenly changes that’s the important data point more so than the actual number.

Gunradd

12-16-2018 05:47 PM

Thanks guys. Trouble shot it today using hot cooking oil heated up to 200. Got nothing on the gauge. Grounded out the sensor wire and it went full hot. That told me it was the sensor. Picked up a new one and all is good now. Temp is still only about 190 but it’s cold water the boat normally does not see.

Got a pic of the part number Incase anyone needs it from advanced auto.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a8306e7c4.jpeg

ph1971

12-16-2018 06:11 PM

Glad you figured things out Gunradd. Sorry I hijacked your thread with my question. Thanks to all that answered. Gunradd, I have Hardin Marine’s thermostatic block adapter, and it works great for getting the oil up to temp if you need to bring yours up. I am getting to 240* on a long hard run so a cooler upgrade is in my future.

Rookie

12-16-2018 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ph1971 (Post 4664006)

Wouldn’t the before cooler temp and the oil pan temp be very close to the same? My sender is currently in the pan. Should it be moved? Where is yours before the cooler? Thanks

It could be, but the gears in the oil pump create a lot of shear heat. Best is to know good temp and then abnormalities.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/P194-10AN-F...aTak:rk:1:pf:0

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