Held off on doing the rack this weekend as I wanted be sure the re-man pump I installed wasn't the issue. It wasn't; therefore, next weekend NOS rack it is, as I feel I've ruled out everything else. After 3 pumps including the original, all the below has stayed the same after the bleeding process in the manual and with the steering tube slots on the rack properly orientated. The rack is also moving freely on the pivots with all linkage removed.

1. Drives disconnected from tiller arm = I can move both with my thumb using the tiller arm!! Definitely not a problem in the gimbals.
2. Drives disconnected from tiller arm, engine running, on trailer= the steering feels the same as OP, harder in general much more so to right.
3. Everything connected, engine running, on trailer= same as #2 above.
4. Everything connected, engine running, on water at idle or plowing= same as #2 above.
5. Everything connected, engine running, on water, on plane, at 3k rpm= same as #2 above and have to yank the wheel hard to the right to turn, left is "normal".
6. Steering cable disconnected from rack, engine off, boat on trailer= free steering.

In speaking with the mechanic I use (has 30 yrs. experience), he's never seen an issue like this be the rack and is why I went with a known good second hand pump from him. The only rack failures he's seen is leaking seals. Now the manual does read, "Hard steering/no assist= Actuator spool valve (shuttle valve in post #13 above) sticking and/or control valve leakage (piston in post #13 above)." That's what I'm banking on, fingers crossed. The good thing is only one bolt retention tab is bent against the bolt and it's the easiest to access.

Keith

FIXED!!

It seems the NOS rack (actuator) fixed the original no assist issue. Today on the water was the first time I've seen the PS fluid churning in the reservoir on any of the three pumps I tried. I had full assist in both directions, no hangups as originally posted. I also noticed when turning the wheel on the trailer the steering cable tube slots on the new rack stayed put in the 12 O'clock position. On the original rack the tube would turn toward the bow and the slots would wind up at 11 O'clock.

The return fitting at the rack broke and I fixed with a brake hose flare fitting and bend which would probably be fine but I only had 3/8" coolant hose on hand. There's also a clamped connection at the flair as well as a 3/8" mender and I'd rather run as little mends as possible. I found a used OE fitting and line that I'll replace it with when it arrives.

Hope this update helps someone in the future!!

No back to my regularly scheduled program of trying to find why the SB engine surges intermittently off idle.
https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...-please-5.html

Keith