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ttrm007

01-19-2019 12:29 PM

Sea strainer plumbing

I am trying to figure out my sea strainer plumbing. Unclear about a few things.

I have transom mounted pickups to strainer Inlet with shutoff. Then comes something I don't get. I would be taking strainer out to the pump and pump to crossover, but for some reason, the strainers are set up with a Tee on the out side withe double 1 1/4" outlets. I don't get why two of them. I was thinking maybe they each go directly to the front engine ports but too big?

This is a twin small block Chevy setup with 2 strainers.

Also, with mercruiser pumps I suspect I need a pressure releif? I intend to run without thermostat until I find it won't work. Where should pressure relief be without and with thermostat?

I'll have a dump from the trans coolers and hope to include releif dump together with it.

Thanks for any help.

Griff

01-20-2019 01:22 AM

Water enters strainers on top fitting and goes to engine from bottom fitting.
The T could be for a pressure bypass or for a fresh water flush connection.

ICDEDPPL

01-20-2019 01:31 PM

Strainer to crossover? Where is the sea pump in all this?

getrdunn

01-20-2019 03:04 PM

Seems a little odd for hose plumbing having the strainers mounted on the transom rather than the bulkhead. Regardless I'm assuming this is a barbed T or is it threaded. Either way aside from a pressure relief is it possible the T fed direct to both left and right side of block if running an open system with no stat.

getrdunn

01-20-2019 03:10 PM

Griff had a good point also for flushing. Is there any garden hose connections near or around the bulkhead somewhere for flushing?

ttrm007

01-20-2019 04:37 PM

There is a hose fitting in top of strainer.

I'm still a little confused for sure.

StewLow

01-20-2019 07:21 PM

Please post pictures of yourvsetbup.

ttrm007

01-20-2019 08:17 PM

Here are a few pics. As you can see in the pictures, the ends are threaded vs. barbed but I do know the hoses were actually clamped on the threads! I'm obviously changing to barbed fittings. Just trying to decide if and for what reason I need 2 on the output side. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...deb8789058.jpg

getrdunn

01-20-2019 08:38 PM

Just looks like someone added to suit there needs for who knows what particular reason. I'd just remove the T and replace with a 90 or what ever works out best for routing etc. Not sure if your going to install pressure relief valves or not. Personally I wouldn't bother if your running stock mags or 330's.

ttrm007

01-20-2019 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by getrdunn (Post 4668973)

I'm running 652hp small block 427's. I'm thinking plumb in a pressure gauge somewhere and see if a relief will be needed once I get them fired up.

getrdunn

01-20-2019 09:05 PM

Sounds like some fun builds. What compression and rpm?

ttrm007

01-20-2019 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by getrdunn (Post 4668977)

Sounds like some fun builds. What compression and rpm?

Dyno sheet has 652 @ 6200 where they stopped. Still climbing...

10.5:1 compression so pump gas is a go.

getrdunn

01-20-2019 09:34 PM

Nice... invest in a bore scope for periodic detonation checks if you don't have one to be on the safe side. I have a 12:1 421 in a 73 camaro and have my handful at times. Solid roller with 411 gears. Needs 355's. Nice to pull in the gate at nearby airport for some good guy fuel.

ttrm007

01-21-2019 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by getrdunn (Post 4668981)

Sounds like a fun car! I have a '67 Chevy II with a solid flat tappet 327 at 12.5:1. Race gas only... I like the scope idea. I haven't used one. What are you looking for? burn marks? deposits? Not sure what that detonation would leave behind to see?

Thanks.
Tom

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