Offshoreonly.com - LS Build: In Progress

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So the port work is mostly cleanup. They went from 260cc to 267cc runners. Also reshaped the chambers. Notice the area right behind the spark plug. We shortened and laid back the quench pad to slow fuel burn. Ferrea 6000 intakes. Super alloy exhaust valves

Just ordered new spec cams to compliment the little 1.9L blowers
230/250 120+5 .621/.595 overlap 0
ivo 0
ivc 50
evo 70
evc 0
Needless to say we won’t be wasting any boost.

I've been following your thread. Looks like it's no longer a budget build. :D It's appreciated that you post all your trials and errors, despite getting beat up on here sometimes. The way I see it is, you've only posted what you think you'll achieve with a certain setup, and whether you achieved your goal or not, you've graciously accepted all the feedback, good and bad. Your thread has been good info for me. Thanks.

I pulled my 502 and have been building a Procharged LS3, (for a few years now :(). I have a thread on another forum and along with my successes, I've posted my mistakes as well and I've made a bunch of claims that show how naive I am. But hey, if someone else can learn from my mistakes, great.

I have a couple questions. Why did you use a remote thermostat before instead of the one with the water pump? I'm using the stock circulation pump, (has built in bypass) and plan to use the stock thermostat.

I've read a few times that a spacer is needed for the driver coupler. Are you using one? I'm using a flywheel and my measurements show I'll be about 1/4" shorter than previously, but I don't think that's going to be an issue, so I'm skipping the spacer.

My plan all along was to use the stock cam. I know next to nothing about cam specs, but my research led me to believe the stock overlap wouldn't cause me reversion. After finding this thread and seeing the cam discussions, I'm now seriously beginning to question my decision. I absolutely do not want to go with dry exhaust. I want my boat as quiet as possible and I'm already ditching my Q&Q, (but keeping the Corsa mufflers). Any thoughts on the stock cam?

Looking forward to your updates.

Quote:

Originally Posted by yeller (Post 4723359)

the remote thermostats are used for a few reasons. First the water has to have a way to feed the exhaust at all times. Secondly on an ls the water enters where the thermostat is located which puts a huge dam in the way for filling the block. Also it would require the water in the block to reach a certain temp to open but at the same time the water would be already pouring out the outlet not allowing it to reach temp. The only way to put a thermostat after the outlet is by placing the thermostat downstream.
No spacers were required. Just bolt the coupler directly to the flywheel. It must be an older ls flywheel. The newer ones will not work.
If you are going to use a stock cam use the LS9. It will not revert and will make good power.
I will be updating here shortly with build pics. The engines are just about finished. Will also update build specs

Thanks for the quick reply.
I assumed you were closed cooling. Remote stat makes sense then.
What is it about the newer flywheels that don't work? It's been so long since I ordered mine, I can't remember what engine/year I ordered it for, but everything bolts up, so I should be good.
Thanks for the cam recommendation.

Quote:

Originally Posted by yeller (Post 4723425)

They use like a 6” wide ring as a mounting/friction point. Lookup like maybe a 2010 camaro flywheel. You will see what I mean

Quote:

Originally Posted by mggdoors (Post 4715718)

You may be correct but the stock springs are 120 and they can not control anything more aggressive than a stock cam for the most part. I personally believe its low for these heavy 2.165 valves. Now that the blowers are going on I definitely need to get the ducks in a row.

There is much more at play than just the force on the seat, but I'm sure you're aware of that. It sounds like you're well on your way at this point, but my offer still stands. PM me or email at [email protected] if you'd like to discuss this topic further.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NautiSouth (Post 4723522)

I appreciate the offer but Ive got it under control. I made sure the new shop measured spring heights and shimmed the springs. Spring pressure is 162 seat 405 nose which we verified on each and every spring. I also reduced the lift on the cam using the same series of lobe which reduced intensity. Last but mot least I restructured cam timing to suit the blower which in turn also reduced intake valve opening against exhaust pressure. We did add about 20 grams of weight with valves though

Very cool deal here...good luck, close to starting my twin turbo LS Daytona, here's pic of where I am at this point...well guess I can no longer post pics ???