:)

My reply in this is what the VP prop guide tells you, I have no experience myself as to mixing props.

Understood, and not trying to "1 up you". Just sharing a different perspective.

I've mixed pitches on Bravo III drives before. As stated above, only way to know the results is to try it. I went back to a matched set as mixing did not have the desired outcome.

As someone who tried it and has real life experience what was it that made you try it and why were the results not what you had hoped for ?
BTW , I can , for example, see someone who wants to optimize their RPM range to exact factory specs and what they might run is a little bit too much and the next set down is too little or vice versa and therefore the reason for experimenting.

Trying to dial in WOT RPM with the hopes of a little more top end as well. I was in between prop sets as 26's I was hard on the limiter in ideal conditions but the 28's dropped the RPM too much. Tried a inner (larger) 28 with the outer (smaller) 26.

I like the real life testing . When you did that where did your WOT rpm go and was that the only switch you tried , ie; did you try the 26 front/28 rear mix ? .

I did not try the 26" forward with the 28" aft prop as I didn't think the diameters would play well together. It was in the early 2000's when I was messing with this so I don't remember where I ended up RPM-wise. I just know I decided to send my 26's off to Bronson Hill instead of running the mixed set. I believe Bronson added some cup to the props. A friend of mine and member on this site (Mentalpause) ordered a new 1998 Powerquest 270 with a 454MAG/Bravo III and he stated it came from PQ with a mixed-pitched set of props.

On another DPX note. Has anyone here had to bleed the XACT (external) steering. I want to have a leaking ram repaired but reading about bleeding is spooking me a bit

Or anyone have a factory service manual that may describe the process of bleeding the steering? thanks!

Self bleeding. Run the engine and just crank wheel back and forth, lock to lock several times and you should be good to go. The cylinders are pretty easy to rebuild yourself, if you have a bit of mechanical inclination. Hardest part is sourcing seals without paying and arm and a leg, and breaking the cylinder end cap loose can a be a B!Tc$.

I did, after some troubles, find a 3 pin, pin wrench that fits the caps very well, and made that job a whole lot easier.