|
Originally Posted by getrdunn
(Post 4679542)
Let's not go there until OT get at lease a case of beer in him but good call. Muffs must fit a lot tighter than ones I've used. You'd think minimal water would get passsed the pump when not turning. |
Originally Posted by Baja Rooster
(Post 4679541)
If the front of the boat is tipped down it’ll ingest water even when running, and if it’s just sitting there all of that water is using the exhaust as a funnel into the engine. Buy buy a couple cases of cheap oil and flush that bugger. Some people add some diesel fuel to the oil to bind the water to the oil to extract it. Also forgot to mention in the last posts, I took the starboard riser, plugged the entry port, tipped it exhaust side up and filled the jacket with water through the holes in the tip. No leaks. They are Stainless Marine but almost 20 years old now (about 350 hours use or so). |
Ok so its not angle of the boat. the deck is more or less level but the risers are definitely running downhill towards the stern.
Its 1 am im gonna call it quits for the night and get back on it tomorrow. Thanks for the support gents. |
Most exhaust leaks only show up with pressure and sometimes only when hot and pressurized. Sounds like your on the right path though. The water coming up the dipstick may have been a blessing. |
Originally Posted by Baja Rooster
(Post 4679558)
Most exhaust leaks only show up with pressure and sometimes only when hot and pressurized. Sounds like your on the right path though. The water coming up the dipstick may have been a blessing. |
Originally Posted by getrdunn
(Post 4679535)
You can just crank over after oil is drained and replaced but the shop vac just an opinion. I've shot a bunch of water out of jet skies cylinders oover the years. Biggest thing is the quicker you get on it the better. If you can pull the drain plug be ideal as water will be on the bottom. Even if you normally don't drain due to your method you can always pull plug til you start getting oil and tighten back up. |
If the plugs are out, crank the motor. That will blow it out of on top of the pistons and suck it out of the ports. It would be best if you could pull the drain plug and drain the oil Pan empty yes you're draining it into the bilge. Want you to the point of adding oil, only add two quarts. That's enough to get you oil pressure. Run in about 3 minutes. Shut it off pull that drain plug again drain it empty. You don't want to leave the quart or so of water below the dipstick you want to drain that thing empty. It's going to take you 6 or 7 tries at 2 qt apiece to get it to start running relatively clean.
|
Pump it out with a priming tool with distributor removed. Keep adding diesel or thin motor oil to thin the mess. If you run a thermostat your winterizing method may not be to good. |
Originally Posted by 14 apache
(Post 4679602)
Pump it out with a priming tool with distributor removed. Keep adding diesel or thin motor oil to thin the mess. If you run a thermostat your winterizing method may not be to good. |
Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
(Post 4679604)
Thats what I was thinking about 20 posts ago, if the T-stat doesn't open the raw water stays in the block and the antifreeze never enters.
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:58 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.