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Unfortunately I used up all the inputs on my ECU. Im not sure if I'm going to change ECU or use what I have now. The ecus I'm looking at can monitor, datalog and and even shut a hot cylinder off.

If I keep my current ecu I was looking into something like this: https://www.altronicsinc.com/egt-sys...ecorder-1.html

Im pretty sure builder has egt setup on dyno.

Just see if your dyno guy has them you will need them for sure.

Not sure im going to take it to an stand dyno, might just go to a chassis dyno. There is so many items tied into my ecu to remove the harness it would be a nightmare. Wires are all tucked under the entire dash and go from there, not to mention taking the front of my car apart to get the intercooler out. Haven't made a final decision yet. That's why I'm looking into my own egts.

if you are running the MKVIII fan then yes you are moving as much as possible. they move a ton of air no doubt. some of the guys that work on radiator and heat load testing did some tests for NASCAR and others and found that the black paint raised the amount of heat removed. most guys get by with leaving them aluminum because they have more cooling than they need so the difference would not be noticed. is this a single or double pass radiator? btw, you can get a rattle can of paint for bbq's that will hold up to the heat and not build thick and sticks to the aluminum well.

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The difference will only be noticed if a heat load test is conducted under controlled conditions. Comparing the polished aluminum radiator against a flat black painted radiator.
The '1' value given to flat black is indicating all heat ,100%, is emitted or absorbed and the .1 to .o5 for polished aluminum refers to only 10% or less is absorbed or emitted.

JUL 30, 2018
boiled water for a living working at thermal electric power plants. Nuclear, oil /gas fired boilers, and gas turbine/boiler plants.
Black receives all colors (light) and well into the radiant heat spectrum. Polished aluminum reflects all colors and into the radiant heat spectrum. That is why you see your pretty face the first time the radiator top tank comes out of the carton.
Within the containment at a Nuc. plant ( Westinghouse PWR) all the reactor coolant lines are insulated with polished stainless steel. ( this stuff was massive) But it did reflect the radiant heat well, though the costs were a tad big.
Stainless was used because of the possible chlorides in normal high temp insulation react with the stainless pipe used.
Saying that to make a point that all materials have what is called a emissivity number. ( the ability to emit or receive heat) Black is 1.0. If considering blue or red they are around 0.9, the number for polished aluminum is 0.1 - 0.05. Less then one tenth to one twentyth the ability of matt black to emit or receive heat.
I have used a thinned flat black to paint when needed to enhanse the ability of the radiator to emit as much heat as possible. Just enough to make it look black.
If a thicker paint is used then the insulating qualities and the heat transfer qualities of the paint comes into the equation. This is why some who did the back paint job had unimpressive results.
Hope this helps the discussion
Dick
I found this on line. And i also looked on ebay for nascar radiators and no black ones LOL

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Originally Posted by 14 apache (Post 4682345)

it has a belt driven water pump. Btw what do you consider big power? 1200hp is pretty big.

Looks like this with a dead pulley to me.... but the part I didn't think about was if you can mount the stock fan to that, sorry I was not spot on enough with a idea for you lol
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...&ictx=3&uact=3

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Originally Posted by underpsi68 (Post 4682400)

I have used a belt driven pump. Currently running an electric (in picture) that uses an idler pulley. It is a 55gpm pump. It will flow more at idle/lower rpms than the belt driven pump. Same for using the electric fan I'm running. Also running the pump on PWM to vary the speed and amperage draw. My temps issues are more at idle/ low speed due to not much air getting into engine compartment and a small front opening. I am running a 4" thick intercooler that is as big as I could fit. Than I have 2 transmission coolers blocking the top of the radiator (as well as a frame mounted transmission cooler). It is hard to keep the tranny cool to make it last, especially with a high stall convertor. 10 years without any issues.

When you say high hp, how much are we talking? This engine will make 1000+, probably 1400 (possibly 1500) all in. It is much harder to keep a car cool driven on the street than a boat. I wish I had an endless supply of cold water lol. Also are you running a supercharger? Stock block? I ran Vortechs for about 20 years. The supercharger engine will run cooler than the turbo setup. Factory block will run cooler than my Ford "R" race block. Siamese bore with a lot more metal. Not much room for coolant. Lol Also possibly a big difference in traffic and air temps. Did I say I love NY?

I have ran both blocks and also modular, supercharged, many buddys with turbos also, I was just tossing idea out there, but 14 Apache had to dig at me like always so I won't bother anymore, carry on..

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Originally Posted by Full Force (Post 4682533)

Come back and join the party! I'm one of the few Ford guys here.

Quote:

Originally Posted by underpsi68 (Post 4682614)

Come back and join the party! I'm one of the few Ford guys here.

there is one ford guy with pretty good power on here think it's in a cigarette.

Quote:

Originally Posted by underpsi68 (Post 4682614)

Come back and join the party! I'm one of the few Ford guys here.

Only driven Fords for 24 years.... MANY Mustang I have had also.. Nothing better then pulling on a Z06 with a old azz Terminator...