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Read my plugs
So I pulled my plugs out today just to take a look and the picture is what I found. The other bank is pretty similar. Procharger 6psi, Accel DFI, wideband, o2 13.1-13.4 cruise, 12-12.7 from 3200 to 6100. These are after a wot run and idling to the boat ramp, as far as last use, but are a season old all together. They look lean to me by the white porcelain, but not sure what to think about the straps. No soot in the transom, so I could probably go richer. Any thoughts?
https://i.ibb.co/pZ1xx6V/20190616-115123.jpg https://i.ibb.co/fvCFCRf/20190616-114518.jpg |
Can’t be read after idling. For a good read put a new set in while you’re out. Do a WOT and basically get in neutral quickly and shut it down for a good read. Idling will throw the read off |
AC - the pics are tiny, When you click on the they don't get larger,
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That's weird with the pics. Here are the full size.
CI, I know the right way to do it. I just pulled the m to check and they looked unusual. I guess I would expect the porcelain to clean itself off that quick. https://i.ibb.co/g3ddqnM/20190616-115123.jpg https://i.ibb.co/tC3nNrj/20190616-114518.jpg |
Why read the plugs if you have wideband?
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You only get average with o2. Plug reading would be better if you have the rite stuff to examine them. |
Originally Posted by Trash
(Post 4692138)
Why read the plugs if you have wideband?
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Originally Posted by ACrooks69
(Post 4692134)
That's weird with the pics. Here are the full size.
CI, I know the right way to do it. I just pulled the m to check and they looked unusual. I guess I would expect the porcelain to clean itself off that quick. Trying toread someone's plugs from a computer screen sucks anyway. LOL. |
what heat range plugs you running. I don't think your going to read them with a picture unless you cut the shell off of them. |
It's a NGK BKR7E, had 3924 come apart after 2 seasons. Had some deto in midrange and wasn't fuel control or timing related. Added fuel and pulled timing and didn't seem to do much. The next week boom. Not sure if the plug went or the deto pinched a ring, but top o piston came off. I jumped to a cooler plug last season, and may go cooler, doesn't seem like I'm having fouling issues with the 7, may go to 8.
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Adding to spark plug talk, maybe go to a standard tip plug. The BKR7E is listed as a projected tip. For starters and unless proven otherwise, I would start with a -8 heat range and a non projected plug.
if the piston top came off, ring butting is #1 thing that causes it, and #1 for that is too much heat for the gap set,or said other wise ring gap not set wide enough. Lean mixture, excessive spark advance, high compression, inadequately working cooling system, detonation and high HP per cubic inch all combine to increase an engine's heat load |
Can you suggest a non projected tip 8 heat range plug? I had been looking in the NGK catalog, but don't think they make one. Maybe in another manufacturer?
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Originally Posted by ACrooks69
(Post 4692234)
Can you suggest a non projected tip 8 heat range plug? I had been looking in the NGK catalog, but don't think they make one. Maybe in another manufacturer?
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414ci 623hp corr on dyno, figure 580ish corrected through the manifolds.
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Also, I know I can go R5671A-8 (assuming that would be 1 colder than what I currently have) , but I was hoping for a resistor plug. I did run FR5 in a prior application so it should be fine. I wasn't efi then though, just concerned about the interference, but I have good wires.
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You have the rite NGK number there. |
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