Hydraulic Steering issues, low and overflowing after sitting
 

This weekend took the boat out, and I had very little steering, took 3 turns of the wheel to get the boat to move.

Nothing visually wrong or leaking. The fluid was a bit low, after revving it a few times went back to normal felt great.

The next day checked the fluid, and it was to the top and spilled out? Turned the steering wheel (engine not running) to see what it felt like. Felt like it was not connected and spun freely. (not sure what it normally feels like, I don't remember trying to steer without the engine running, but assume it would be stiff)

Do not have a fluid reservoir, just the dip stick on the power steering pump.

Set up is full Latham.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

you have air in the system, need to bleed it out

Thanks,

What would cause air to get in the system? I've had the boat for almost 10 years and never had this issue before.

if the tank ran out of fluid you have air in the system

Bled the system as per Latham instructions. Prior to bleeding the drive would move back and forth about 5" like it was connected to a rubber band. after bleeding, got it rock solid. BUT after letting it sit for a few hours, I checked it to make sure it was solid...nope, moves about 3" back and forth. What did I do wrong? What to now? (I assume bleed it again, but not sure why it's doing this, first time bleeding hydraulic steering for me). I did the bleed by myself, maybe that is the issue. When turning the wheel all the way to one side, I went to the back and let our some oil. Should someone be holding the wheel at the limit while I do that?

Can anything be done without the motor running?

Thanks for the help!

Yes, you still have air in the system, it really take 2 peeps, does the pump shaft have an allen socket fitting where the pulley mounts, if so pull the belt and spin it with a drill, keeping the bottle full while someone turns the wheel lock to lock,

just checked, it does have the allen socket. what is the difference between running the engine and using the drill? Checked the pump fluid, its full to the top now, and the drive is very spongy and moves a good 5". How many times should the wheel be turned lock to lock? Should the wheel be turned slowly or quickly?

One thing noticed after I shut the engine off I hear a hissing sound, which I think is the power steering cap leaking out air. When bleeding I have the cap on so it does not overflow, should the cap be on or off? (I don't have the reservoir overflow tank)

Thanks again, I really appreciate the help!

I went through the process a number of years ago. I can't remember exactly how long it took to bleed all the air out, but it was not a quick few minutes process. Certainly long enough that you were not counting the number of times you cranked the wheel lock to lock. As the air bleeds out of the system you need to keep replacing that air space with fluid, and continue the process over and over. I'm thinking I did it with the cap off, but not sure. It can get a little messy when the air burps out of the reservoir, I just had a large towel surrounding it to catch the "spit" from the burbs.

Ran it with the lid open (cut a water bottle dried it and made a mcGiver splash guard for the burps) and wrapped the base with a rag. The fluid when running looks like pink foam...I assume that is the air bubbles. After sitting a while looks normal and not cloudy at all. Drive is solid, But after a while gets soft again (much better than before maybe an inch or so) but still spongy.

Pretty sure when you finally work all the air out of system that foam will be gone. You should just see the red fluid with no foaming or small bubbles. But as I said, it's been awhile, like 2007 when I had to do it.