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5.7 vortec fresh reman from the machine shop with rust?

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5.7 vortec fresh reman from the machine shop with rust?

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Old 07-27-2019, 04:46 PM
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Default 5.7 vortec fresh reman from the machine shop with rust?

Hello fellow boat gear heads. I have a small issue and I could really use some opinions. I have come here to offshore only because while building my 21’ mirage I had lots of questions and by using the search I found almost all my answers. I found that in all the English interwebs this forum consistently has the best most accurate advice and also the least amount of boneheads. So enough of the brown nosing and on to the issue.
To give you the background I got a 1996 21’ mirage trovare from a friend. It had no motor or accessories as the 5.0 mercy that was in it had been frozen as in not winterized. Long story short a buddy that owns a machine shop built me a 5.7. Nothing crazy just upgraded to a one piece rear main and a factory roller set up. I bought all new accessories and put it together an in the boat. We had a great summer. Last year I put it in the water in the spring and had issues right away. Long story short both heads cracked from heat and the motor ended up a core in the end. Sad and true. This year I decide to buy a marine engine from a reputable machine shop that knows marine engines. I also decide to move up to a vortec head motor. I sent them money they sent me a motor. Just after I started to dress the long Bloch I found they sent me the wrong motor I that I didn’t have the mechanical fuel pump boss. I specifically asked for the mechanical boss block so they sent me the correct motor and I sent the first one back.
Now to the issue I unwrapped the new motor and I looked ok but upon closer inspection getting ready to install the harmonic balancer and water pump I noticed a few things. 1. The block has rust inside already and not just a little a significant amount. I realize it is a raw water cooled motor and it will have rust in the water jackets but from brand new rebuilt?
2. The supposed rebuilt vortec heads have rust in them too. Not as bad as the block but still rust. 3. There is oil in the valley ondicating that thins engine is not new. It is clean oil but the original long block did not have oil it just had assembly lube. 4. The machine face of the sealing surface of the head to the intake does not look fresh it doesn’t look bad but it surely doesn’t look brand new. 4. The bypass hole in the block for the water pump has a plug in it and it have a short pump with the bypass and v belt set up like the original 5.0 had. I believe if I leave that plug in it will cause cooling issues because as I understand it that plug is for newer style reverse rotation pumps which don’t need the bypass. So if I left it as they sent it I could be right down the same road if it overheated.

Now my question is do you who know think this is par for the course or is this bulls**t. I have been trying to come to terms with it but I can’t seem to justify it in my head. I paid $4300 Canadian for it which roughly works out to $3000 USD. Should I send I back or ?
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Old 07-27-2019, 07:04 PM
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Can you post some pictures ? It is very difficult to get the rust out of the water jackets on a raw water cooled marine engine. Also, it seems like you can get them almost totally rust free but if they sit for a while without being run the rust wants to come back. I use an oven and steel shot blaster to clean cast iron heads and blocks and there are still times I wish I had never seen a block. I am not making excuses, just stating the facts as I have seen them. Most raw water cooled engines that I see with any time on them are not worth reusing the block and heads. Its easier to find a decent used truck core and start over with that.

But, there should not be any more than maybe a "surface" type rust. If it is a heavy buildup then I would have to question it. I am making these comments without seeing the block so please keep that in mind. Pictures would really help

By the way keep in mind that $3000 usd is darn cheap for a complete long block, especially if they supplied the cores because yours were cracked. I doubt that I could do an engine like that for much less than $4500 if I was supplying the block and heads. Maybe more.

Last edited by BillK; 07-27-2019 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 07-27-2019, 08:08 PM
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Hey thanks a lot for the reply. I have pics if I can figure out how to post them. I hear what you are saying. The first motor I got was clean. I have a suspicion that the engine they sent me was the core I sent them. Which is not a bad thing but it is not as advertised. The heads are supposed to be fresh rebuilds. I am asking because I see that I can get a new long block from Michigan motors for close to the same price and it will not be rusty and I know it should be right. Also the motor from Michigan comes with plugs and the dampener which this one did not. I am just struggling with if I should send it back.
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Old 07-27-2019, 08:16 PM
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I guess spending all my time reading the threads doesn’t help. Apparently you need 10 posts to post pictures. Unless I got that wrong
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Old 07-27-2019, 08:21 PM
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Three more posts and I can post pictures? I hope that’s how it works. Either that or I look like a dumb ass.
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Old 07-27-2019, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Blackscout
I guess spending all my time reading the threads doesn’t help. Apparently you need 10 posts to post pictures. Unless I got that wrong
Might be. Just make a few more quick replies and you should be ok for the pics.
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Old 07-27-2019, 08:24 PM
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Will do
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Old 07-27-2019, 08:30 PM
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Old 07-27-2019, 08:30 PM
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Oh snap it worked
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Old 07-27-2019, 08:32 PM
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