How to remove these bolts
 

Heat and try some penetrating oil

heat most likely locktited....

if you have the socket allen wrench instead of a regular on heat it a little like others have said and also with the socket installed in the head of the bolt hit the socket with a hammer a few times and try to rock it back and forth as in loosen-tighten-loosen-tighten-etc. If they are locktited the hammer whack will break it free a lot of times along with the rocking

Try one of these with proper hex socket, maybe add heat.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-...ase-64812.html

I would try Pb Blaster, works well for me spray...wait.. spray...shock....loosen. If not heat it

If heat don't work you can use a air hammer adapter. Like a mac AH5512. Run the air hammer while putting steady pressure with end wrench.

Lubes/sprays don't help. They can't get in between the two surfaces. It's the surface area of the conical head that makes the two pieces stick to each other.

The people who have said heat are totally correct.

I deal with a bunch of these every winter on snowmobile secondary clutches. Conical headed screws into aluminum also.

A regular old benzamatic blue torch makes quick work of them. Somewhere near 60 seconds each on the head of the screws will make them real easy to get out. Once you do a few the rest will be even easier as you get the torch time more dialed in.

Thanks to the all of you , that is what I was thinking , heat.

Thanks again.

This penetrating oil creeps into a millionth of an inch. Works great. Google Deal Google Deal

That it is. Good stuff. I have it too. Good old rust belt alot of us live in. Uuughhhh. :(

For really nasty corroded stuff....I would simply weld a nut to the top of each fastener..then source new fasteners for reassembly.

The nut lets you put down the barbie allen socket bits and get some leverage without stripping...and if you are quick...the welding obviously applies heat.

I've used this method countless times on exhaust manifold studs/bolts broke off in cylinder heads....works well.

I. Have found that when working with stubborn fasteners, the liberal use of high explosives works every time.

there is a guy on youtube that did a test on different oils and that stuff didnt do any better than wd 40. fyi

yes but you need to get one out so that you can put the explosives in the hole for maximum effect.

So very true, spoken like a man with vast experience in the subject.

Would that be the "new" WD or the old formula that worked and actually dispersed water?

probably "project farm"

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2r...6N1X-wuOg_p0Ng

acetone and used transmission fluid,I love the old gm heat valve lubricant(https://www.google.com/search?client...e=UTF-8),,that stuff is amazing.

Loctite is the likely suspect, especially since some appear to be partially loose yet still reluctant to budge. 250 degrees in the oven for an hour or so, then try. You can also take a cutoff wheel on a dremel and make a slot in the heads for a beefy screwdriver. But Loctite is my guess as to the problem.

couple days at the gym should help , maybe some creatine powder .

+1 on the acetone and trans fluid....

Those impact drivers are incredibly effective. Couple it with PB blaster

I did get them all removed. There was White type sealant , I tried the heat and it did help , there were a few that just said no , used a large drill bit and and took the top off , had a 1/4" or so of thread and what was left came right out.

Have the tab plates themselves to do ,so I will try the acetone/mix suggestion. Think it may be 5200 that Dana used.. So thinking that the convical surface were just bonded.

For allen head bolts I always use allen sockets by snap-on because they resist rounding

^^^^ and fit exactly...Unfortunately all tools are not made to the same tolerances and snap-on does deliver (but you do pay for it)

Being a retired VW/AUDI/Porsche/etc tech... sometimes it's a good investment to save "hours" of wasted time to do the task? After all it's only $25/week for life(LOL)!