Outdrive Alignment
 

Have never seen this with an outdrive setup. Boat is a Formula 292 and has twin 5.7's and Bravo drives. There is no adjustment to align the drive, its either dead on or its off. What's missing?


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...18ec2806bc.jpg


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c0a93cd852.jpg

All off shore mounts are like that, mark the holes before removing and it goes back in the same spot

Solid motor mounts, considered very strong, Dont really need them with those small motors. ...but how to align??

Swap for standrad Bravo setup

Pedestal mounts are adjustable, the rubber can sag and need to be realigned. If those move you have serious rot issues.

The guy said before motors were removed the alignment was perfect, couldn't ask for any smoother. Motors were rebuilt and bolts went back in same holes, and alignment bar does go in but just not as smooth and requires more effort to remove bar

Is there rubber pad between mount and motor that can be replaced?

loosen the bellhousing bolts and tap your alignment bar with a rubber hammer side to side and up and down to align the rear of the engine to the bearing

Edit: no rubber on an offshore mount that Ive ever seen

ok no rubber on front, only on rear mounts. Never would have thought this setup with a Bravo drive, transmission or jack shaft sure. I'll pass info along Tx

The alignment is set. If it’s off there are other issues.

depending on what rear mount you have that might be causing an alignment issue .mercury has two different rear mounts and I have seen the new style mount with the grooves on the bottom out of spec right out of the factory and typically will need to shim that area
that mount requires no spring only the washer
also my recommendation to you before you install the drive would be to disconnect an ignition wire to get rid of spark ,seat the alignment bar all the way into the gimbal bearing and have someone turn over the engine
watch the end of the bar while the engine is rolling over
if the alignment bar moves you have an out of round coupler and eventually it will fail
an out of round coupler can also cause an alignment issue

Good info, not my boat, but the guy which owns it also replaced both couplers during rebuild, so hope they are true

Merc has special requirements to install the couplers. Not many even know about that info so prob a good guess for the possible issue as that install was not done properly.

Also the rear mounting depending on inner transom plate will or will NOT use the spring washers and those procedures are required. I have posted that info plenty of times up here and the related Merc material all about it as well.

Thanks everyone! (boat owner)
When I dropped the engines in, and aligned them, the rod went in/out fairly smooth. After I brought the boat home from my friend's garage, (my drives were at home) I checked the alignment again and it felt off.
I've only got a few mm of up/down in the front of the engine as you can tell from the mount design.

I like F2-Speedy's suggestion to align the rear. I will give that a try tonight. I've not yet tried this at all.
I will then disable spark and crank the engine w/the tool in place to make sure it spins in place.

The attaching hardware that was removed was replaced with new, but in exactly the same setup on the rear mounts.
New fiber washers and springs. Everything else was reused.

Since both engines were new I had to install a drive coupler on both.
I did my best to make sure they were centered and used a star pattern to tighten the bolts.

I reused the existing rear mounts/flywheel cover as there was nothing wrong w/them.

Thanks for any help!

That is a good idea.

Did you install new gimbal bearings too? Do that while everything is a apart as well. And they will be a shade tighter than what came out as well.

Yes, the Gimbal bearings are new, OEM sealed. Thanks! I will give a go tonight.
On the Port side I get grease marks on the bottom of the tool.
On the Starboard I get grease marks all the way around, but its very hard to install/remove.

you have to align your gimbal bearing as well. But if engine alignment and or coupler alignment is off then its moot anyways.

Your engine coupler INSTALL is NOT how its done. That can get you close at times and off at other times. Like I said there is special procedures that have to be done to get the coupler installed correctly. Prob have people here thinking I do not know what I am talking but actually that's not the case at all. I do not post that way. Just saying

Also who installed the flywheels ?? was flywheel runout checked after the install ? was the back side of the flywheel very clean before it was installed and the engine flywheel mounting surface ?

Even if the flywheels were not installed as they came on the engines - flywheel run out needed to be checked. Was the flywheel bolts torqued to spec or checked ?

if all the back end was done correctly - you align the engine from the front - most installs from a bracket installed at the top of the T stat housing and then adjust the front motor mount positions.

turn over engine and watch the alignment tool spin - how much out of round is the tool when spinning ?

The engines came with new flywheels already attached. I ordered new to simplify the swap and really why not at $100?
I can only assume that michigan motorz installed them correctly.

The factory service manual has no mention of a "procedure" to install the drive coupler...?
What are you suggesting?

I need a second person to do the spin test, I plan to do that tonight.

Last night I loosened all 8 bolts for each engine, and using the alignment tool, tapped it in all directions w/a small rubber hammer. Then tightened the rear 2 to the 37 ft lbs the manual says.

After that, it slides much smoother. I then setup my rig for adjusting the up/down from the front of the engine as well. Working alone last night I had to climb the ladder, adjust the engine, then retest, and repeat a bunch of times. It slides pretty smooth, but I think I can do better. My new setup allows for a much finer up/down adjustment of the engine. In reality, given the bolt hole sizes, it can only go up/down the smallest bit...

Hopefully tonight w/some help I can have the other person adjust the engine, while I test it. It already slides much easier than before. I also phoned a mobile Merc. mechanic who hopefully can come by. I really want his in person opinion on if I have them correct. If I can't get them to the level I want, I may just haul the boat to a place and have them do it. I lost a coupler 2 seasons ago and don't want to do that again. (20 year old part, from factory). Maybe I'm just being paranoid? You really can't tell how much force it should take from a youtube video... Maybe I have it good enough?
Even if I get it as good as it can be, given how bolts work, won't the bolts just pull it to the centers of holes anyway? most of the washers are now concave. So let's say I get it aligned very well, on the chain fall, and now I lock down those 6 5/8" bolts... won't they just end up centering it anyway?

Here is the whole saga: Winter Work

Thanks!

I install the drive then tighten the transom bolts

I left the alignment tool in while locking down the transom ones. hopefully that had a similar effect.

fyi.....
my setup may a little different , as i with c-72 trans's,,,
got a junk block, bolted bellhousing and trans to block, lowered motor in engine compartment ,,
got the two rear trans bolts into the transom housing, left them lose,
then used align tool to adjust motos up or down with chain fall.
once alignment was good, drilled 3/8 hole thru the mounts and plates.
then added bolted tighten it up , then drilled the rest of the holes , for big bolts.

i pulled motors last fall, fixed or changed some things on motors, re installed them last spring with no issues.

good luck.............

Good deal, thanks for the replies. Last night I got port squared away. it's buttery smooth.

I didn't have much luck w/starboard so I'm going to give it another try soon.