it can only grind it so much,depends how deep the hardening went.

Maybe have Bullet design the cam and valve train to fit the application, and maybe the engine will run better and live longer.

Its a Billet Core , I would send it to them and see what they can do with it , the damage doesnt look to severe.

Yep without EXTENSIVE portwork they don't flow enough to support more then 650 or so at best

See a few things there, plus that amount of sealer around ports no good,

You can work merlin heads to make some decent numbers if your guy knows what to do, nice HR cam and rid that tray...

I have 572's with 9.5:1 Merlin 320's fully worked, with a 260/[email protected] and .575/.575 lift cam on a 112, Dart ported and matched intakes and 1050 Doms, dyno sheet show 765HP@5800, if you have unported heads and tons of lift you are wasting that "time" keeping valve in that range thats why my cams are low lift... spends more time .400-.500 range where head flows air. kind of hard to explain..

new cams, proper setup will run great! get rid of that pan,

Thanks! That pan is flash gordon. What cam, lifters and springs are you using.
to add insult to injury i found this when pulling the other cam out. Explains why there was no front to back
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...4917b2db5d.jpg
play in the cam

I am going to assume this is a 4.5" stroke 572? a 4.5 stroke engine will need substantially more duration to hit 5500, than a 4.25 or 4.00 stroke.

Ok , heres the deal with your current cam. Its a 108 LSA. I am going to guess, your intake valve closes around 49* or so, assuming your ICL is around 103 or 104. If you switched to a 114 LSA cam, with a 110 ICL , same duration and lift, your intake valve would close say 7* later, around 56*. This change alone, would extend the peak power roughly 300RPM or so, due to the later closing intake valve.

Your power peaking at 5400, is about right to my math on that setup. I would recommend going with a comp cams HUC lobe if you plan on going to a hyd roller setup. Something in the 254/264 110-112 LSA range, .680 lift. You'll make peak power a few hundred RPM higher, and have a little flatter power curve.

.050 duration numbers don't always tell the whole story.

ohhhhhhhhhhhh,,,
you using cam button or ???

yes has cam button. Pretty sure this ones on me. forgot to grind the water pump rear cover bolts down. See when i head back to the lake this weekend.

if u are running solid rollers , like i am,, u must sure to check gap or fore to aft play in cam button to timing cover.
it took me some time , but finally got what i think was 010 to 015 gap.

yea , used 3-4 water pump gaskets,,,also had to grind down bolts on backside of pump.
i had to do this stuff , as it was a new setup for me.

what did u do with cam bearing???

have not done anything with the cam bearing yet just found this sunday before leaving the lake. Going to check the other cam bearings this weekend. Other front bearing looks good. Easy enough to change the front bearing. But just sick to my stomach at the thought of having to pull the engines. Thats a lot of metal
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d633574f6c.jpg

why is the dowel alignment pin hole larger on one gear that the other or am I seeing things

could be drilled for the installation of an offset bushing to degree in the cam

yes it had a bushing

are you running big block chevy camshaft gear thrust bearing,,you chewed up the block and gear.your gonna need to fic those surfaces
https://www.google.com/search?q=big+...t=opera&hs=HVI

Don't think so. I bought the motor fresh rebuild i just put the accessories on. Can i run a gen 6 cam and retainer instead of machining the block?

did the cam rub the cam plug in the back of the block.

yea,,you need to get timing chain set up that has thrust washer ...and better to degree cam with lower crank gear.
most have different key ways to adjust cam timing ...0 ...+2...+4...
also, not sure about gen 5 or 6 's, but machine shop had me replaced stock lifter galley plugs, with plugs that had a ??? 020 hole drilled in them .
helps get some oil to thrust washer and behind timing chain to block interface.

check with endoscope this weekend. Thanks

i will look into some. You are talki g about the plugs next to the front cam bearing?
Also noticed on my old 454 had a small hole drilled below the cam bearing same purpose i guess.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e2dd3bc675.jpg

yea,,again not sure on gen 5 or 6,,,
but yea like your old 454...those hole are to get a little oil to that interface between timing chain and block.
years ago , i that same issue , cam wore into my block.in my super gas car,,, my same machine got me a thrust washer to put behind timing chain.
now ,,you can get that thrust washer as part of timing chain gear.
also,, i hate to say this,,,but you better see what is in your oil filter. hopefully your filter caught any metal from timing chain.
i had similar issue when i destroyed my valley baffles. i had metal in filter,,,so i rebuilt that motor again.

yea those plugs...
what are your motors gen 5 or 6??

new and my old ones are gen 4.
I ran motors about 2 hrs the changed oil and filters. cut open one of those sunday does have metal in filter. Filters in motor now have maybe 1.5 - 2hrs will pull those this weekend.going to pump rest of oil out of motors and check pan with endoscope also.

sounds like a plan

good luck

Put a scope down down in the motor seen enough it's coming out. Looks like the rod caps been hitting the oil pan baffle. Fuu me.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...cb508ed9fc.jpg

Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate it!

ahhhh,, bummmer chris,,,
but ,,for all the money that goes into building these motors,,,,,,,you got to be safe than sorry.

who built these motors,,no way they didn't know the con rod bolts were hitting the windage tray.hate to say it,,you bought a pile of parts.have the rotating assembly's balance can't trust anything in these motors.

Glen Self Racing in Oklahoma did the rebuild. I agree they did not get anything right on the too end , sure the bottom is no better. Tear em down and start over.

hello chris,,,

did u pull the motors?????

flash .................out

got them ready to pull. The boat is in the water so just going to have the marina pull them. Going.to look at a set of mags in a couple weeks. If all goes well I'll have them dropped in and get on the water for the summer. Between being laid up for 2 1/2 yrs. From a car wreck then spending the last 2yrs. Totally redoing the boat i have only been on the water about 4 months in the last 5 yrs. So I'm going to take my time rebuilding them then make a decision on whether they go back in or not. Turn 60 this year. Climbing around the bilge is not as fun As it used to be lol. But thanks for all the advise. I'm sure i need some more once i get it tore down.

good morning chris,,,,

yea , i hear ya on doing all this work. pulling motors is a job. i have pulled my motors twice since 2014,
first was to rebuild motors,,,
second was to correct the valley pan issues, and change motors to normal cir pump, got rid of cam driven water pumps...

and yea,,i hear ya.. ,,, i will be 64 this july!!!!!!
thank god for mortin and alchol...ahhahahaa


flash out

hey chris,,
whats up the motors????

flash.................

Motors out and 1 tore down. They have metal in them so blocks and cranks going to get flushed and checked out. Going to take my time burned out from rushing things. So while i do the motors at home. I have gutted the cabin to reupholster. Also pulling fuel tanks to repair front and rear bulkheads. Maybe.on the water next year. My buddy is finishing putting 572s in his 47 excalibur. So I'll hang with him.this summer and buy gas, hopefully the price stays low lol.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b46e323cd4.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...04e3107d17.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...feb8a2ba24.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...db75dfe387.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...921f17b690.jpg
one piston ring gaps side by side