MSD vs Thunderbolt
 

MSD vs Thunderbolt and why?

Thunderbolts = Reliability

Stock power stay with thunderbolt. If you’re built and need tuning capability for carbs go with daytona sensors

Thunderbolt+Daytona=Awesome!

Thanks all, I have always thought this myself. Ran 750HP for 10 years with it had a shop trying to sell me differently!

I had some warmed over 454's(640hp),one day I had an msd vs t-bolt(msd on 1 of the motors died,it was on a restart after leaving the dock,waiting for friends),ran the PR all day and both motors pulled the same.thats when I came up w/ the 2 weather pack connection system to switch out the msd to the t-bolt in seconds.

Pretty much wraps it up. With proper coating and care MSD distributors will last but better have a spare ignition control box per engine. Like Tyler mentioned If you do go aftermarket go with the Marine Daytona sensors. https://shop.daytonasensors.net/. They come preset for marine environment or you map your curve to optimize your application especially with a SC build. Certain rpm's like X advance. The TB system is a great reliable ignition however you just can't tune. Some good threads on here regarding Daytona also.

What would be the advantage. I think the only thing that would be beneficial is a spark knock system for non injection.

MSD= May Soon Die....

Are you running o2 and spark knock sensors?

No I have a carburated blown motors.

I use to be a bigger fan of DS but not sure anymore about it. I do know for a fact that the EST distributor DS is selling currently comes from China or Taiwan -- one of those I forgot which place. On their page they state all USA built. Not sure about that but will find out

They are not the same company as a couple years ago. Just saying

You can hook an MSD box to TB IV set up https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...erbolt-iv.html

I would only do this if you are having issues with fouling plugs though or want to change/add a rev limiter.
If you just want a different timing curve, then I'd look for a different TB IV module. IMO, the V8-HP has the best timing curve for most performance apps.

I don't think I need it at all, what would be nice is a knock sensor though.

Sounds like a plan. It’s what whatever makes you comfortable. Sounds like your staying away from ign controls but just wanted to let it be known Daytona Sensors is based out of south Daytona FL and manufactured and assembled is US. Unless as of recent.

So does there ignition controls also offer a knock sensor? I'm not against them. That was the point of my original post. is there a reason that would be beneficial.

I opoligize for getting off the track. My bad and your correct. I didn't direct the post to your original thread. That does happen and I don't like it either.

I wasn't being critical and I appreciate the information. That is why I come here, sharing of knowledge.

with daytona you can use a map sensor and pull timing under boost, make a 3D timing table, there’s idle stabilization, start retard, rev limiter. There’s a lot of nice benefits with it. I run them and use the start retard and idle stabilization, rev limiter.

Well said. Was covered already from another aftermarket ignition thread started by OP in January so I figured he knew.

Personally I wouldn’t be without ignition control especially on an SC build. To many benefits.

This is my first carburated blown application. Crazy me but I think that Injected is easier to tune, especially on a dyno.

What would be the combination of parts suggested, do I need to change distributors?

What I have done that works real good it I use the Thunderbolt Distributor, and the Daytona Sensors coil and control unit,I use O2 sensors(reading off a stand alone unit)to set carb jetting and make a timing curve that works for my setup. I use the Idle stabilizing feature to kick up timing at idle under 700 RPMs, works great for my blower set up.
Now one Note these units where bought a few years back when quality May have been better, I can not speck for what is selling today

we use a lot of delco EST systems for most everything they are very hot stone reliable no moving parts and idle with a lot of timing and that really smooths out the idle on fishing boats that idle for 6 to 12 hrs a day and use cap and rotor available almost anywhere. when my sons msd acted up we dropped in an est and dang if it did not run better cleaner more stable idle they have a very hot spark one thing most don,t know is MSD,s multi spark feature is turned off at a pretty low rpm below 3000 i think

Abones what is your total timing at WOT trimmed out. Assuming your at or around 6,400 + -. Just curious. I've got a number in mind and wondering how close I am.
Thanks,
John

Your definately right btw in regards to the tbi durability. I honestly never had one go bad. Are all the tbi Hall effect?

All the ones that i have had my hands on are hall effect. The timing table I built for my 502, Procharged engine is base 15* then slowly proceeds to 28*at 4500, 30* at 5000, and at that point proceeds to go to 35* to 5500 and stays at 35* up to rev limiter at 6300. for idle quality i bump it from 15* to 30* below 700rpm (putting in gear) once the rpm goes above 700 it goes back to 15* and does its thing through out the a rpm range. no need with my set up to drop timing off as boost goes up, like we did in the past without very efficient intercoolers.

tks for the info. I just wasn't sure if all the tbi were Hall effect but figured as much but Tks for clearing that up. Regards to the total advanced if I appreciate the info on that. Didn't mean to interfere with OP but just curious. I didn't look up old thread like a couple years ago but I have no idea why I thought MT was near 41 under certain conditions that fit well with his sc 420 mega 468 builds. Please no one quote me on that though. I could see where factors such as hull efficiency, weight, engine temps, EGT's, detonation, etc all play a factor. I look forward to setting up my Daytona Sensors and will likely be reaching out to you. My what were 871 SC builds went to NA builds however still glad I have them.

I've kinda been out of the loop for a while on a lot of this stuff and not sure if any of you guys can readily answer my question, but I have some Merc Thunderbolt Ignition Distributors from a 1995 boat w/Merc Bulldog engines, According to what is being said by you guys within this thread, it sounds like the Daytona Sensor CD-1 Marine ignition box and the Merc Thunderbolt distributor are compatible together as a working unit,----but what if you add an MSD Crank Trigger into the mix along with the Merc Thunderbolt distributor and Daytona Sensor Marine box?------will it work together?.... or is a special pick-up sensor needed for the crank trigger when using it with a Merc Thunderbolt Ignition Distributor that has Hall Effect? Thanks in advance

here you go,figure 2 page 3,,it can be done

http://nebula.wsimg.com/15bae9a38be4...&alloworigin=1

Wow Bill....you nailed it !!!---thank you! :party-smiley-048:

My builder went full Daytona to include Distributors. Dynoed well.

Good choice. You'll be a happy boater with confidence.