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Coupler alignment dilema

My boat was laid up last season. I completely overhauled the transom assmbly, (the drive is new) replaced the plywood on the inner transom, and replaced the engine beds. After dropping the engine back in, I have the alignment in the ball park. After a slight bump, the tool centers its self and then slides in fairly smooth without binding. However, I keep getting prominent spline marks in the grease between the 2 and 4 o'clock position looking forward. Moving the front mounts left makes a subtle change, but nothing I do seems to make much difference. I'm thinking something is up with the inner transom plate. That the problem is at the rear mounts somehow. Since the flywheel housing is pined in place, and the transom assembly is all inter connected, what could be causing the miss alignment? Does it really need to be perfect. I have my boat set up with a chain hoist at the front and rear on the engine. Any advice would be well appreciated!

If it slides in/out with 2 fingers (easy) your good
When the bar goes in are you smacking the bar a bit with your had each time, up/down/left/right a couple times before pulling out?

Turn the crankshaft 180 deg, see if the Mark's follow. There is no real way to make sure your coupler is perfect.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AllDodge (Post 4727850)

If it slides in/out with 2 fingers (easy) your good

When the bar goes in are you smacking the bar a bit with your had each time, up/down/left/right a couple times before pulling out?

Quote:

Originally Posted by KWright (Post 4727854)

Turn the crankshaft 180 deg, see if the Mark's follow. There is no real way to make sure your coupler is perfect.

When the tool makes contact with the hub, I can push it in from the end of the bar with two fingers. I hadn't tried smacking it. it doesn't move much after it's fully engaged. I get slight spline marks around most of the bar, but they are most prominent btwn 2 and 4 o'clock. Nothing I do will change it. I think close will have to suffice.

I do in fact have a way of checking a coupler. I lock the alignment tool in my vice using rubber jaws. Put the coupler on from the back side first and spin in the direction the tool was machined. It won't fall off and if the hub is out of wack the disc should wobble. It may be a crude method, but I think it does the trick! I did in fact rotate the crank and there doesn't seem to be a problem with the coupler. Thank's for the advice!