Where to put Oil TEMP Sender
 

Pan has no provision so here are my choices.
I want pre filter/cooler oil temps, as in the highest temp as close to pan as possible.
All knowledgeable help welcome. Thanks in advance
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I would just drill a hole in the bottom of the pan and duct tape it.:food-smiley-007:

I don't see a prefilter or cooler so I would suggest the allen head plug above the filter in the first pic. If need be it may need an extension piece if there is not enough room, or thread size is not sufficient

Remote filter and Hardin cooler not connected yet, sorry.

Mine is on the remote filter head so I'm seeing temps before cooler. Easy install
Picked up a AN fitting to place another after the cooler but have not installed. Would be better to do it when building motor and not after the motor is installed. Knowing what the bearings are seeing is good, but knowing the oil isn't roasting is good for me


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They make senders that replace your oil pan's drain plug.

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circled in my oil temp sender...

Same spot here.

I finally opted for the filter head, mine is the older square style but it has a 1/8 npt and is before cooler, so I am told. Next year when I redo my dash I will add another sender after cooler and a toggle switch so I can switch between senders on same gauge. This also tells how well the cooler is actually working.
Thanks for the help and suggestions all.

BBYSTWY
"You said in your thread that you decided on the filter housing...do you have the square style with the thermostat in it? The merc racing one or just the square filter head? I'm wanting to relocate mine as I don't think I was getting proper readings where it was before and I have the merc racing style I'm referring to and I'm trying to figure out if the brass plug in the side of my housing will be a better spot for mine and I didn't want to hijack your thread. Thanks!"

Yes I have the square with the thermostat in it. I used the 1/8 npt hole not the larger one. Feel to continue the discussion, as long as on topic all/any comments welcome and NOT considered hyjacking.
Thank you,
Gary

Thanks!! I'm also going to replace my thermostat when it goes back in...I feel like it might be sticking as I have too LOW of oil temps instead of the usual too high. I think maybe sender location and a possible stuck thermostat might have been my issues....I hope haha

I bought a used thermo/filter head here on OSO. I opted to replace the thermostat/spring and O-ring before install, good thing, the guy sold it to me WITHOUT A T-STAT AND SPRING, no warning from seller (thank you). Hardin Marine has the parts for that, just tell them you need the one with the shoulder, it is the same one they use in their oil systems.
Where is your temp reading from now?

Perfect thanks!

I was pulling it right above the filter pad on the side of the block...temp gauge starts at 140 and it never moved even running wide open last year :party-smiley-004:

Seems something wrong there, The oil should be warmer than the water. Your location is post cooler but still. Sure you have the correct temp sender in it? Oil should be in low 200's when running warmed up. I might buy another sender and replace, if the same wire for 2 like I was stating earlier.

Sounds like its in same location as the oil pressure sender. If this is the case the there is cooling water in the block and that is a small passage, so the block is water is cooling the sensor and transferring heat

Post a pic of location

Its the same location as his first pic...where the allen head is above the filter...I have all new autometer gauges and I have the sensor they recommend..The water temp takes the same sender and it works fine..swapped sensors with one another to make sure I didn't get a bum sender and had the same results...I plan on doing the thermostat and also warming up the sender with hot water or a lighter or something and make sure the gauge moves...I did ground out the sender wire and the gauge pegged as it should so I know the wire and gauge work as they should

OK, that is the normal oil pressure port, and IMO the block could be heat sinking some of the heat away from sensor

Three things come to mind.
1) Could the thread sealer/tape you used on the sensor be causing a "no ground" condition to the block?
2) are you using any type of splitter with the temp sender? A tee or something? If so it will not work, the temp probe needs to be in flowing oil, not stagnant, that is OK for the pressure or warning but not for the temp sender.
3) When you relocate the sensor to the oil filter/t-stat housing if you did like I did and mounted it to the transom then you will need to add a ground wire from the filter block to the motor/battery.

I'll answer them with the numbers for ease lol

1. I thought of that first so when I did the ground check I pulled the wire and touched it to the body of the sender which tells me I and seeing ground through the thread sealer

2. I initially used a tee at that port and saw a thread on here saying the same thing as you just did so I moved oil pressure up to the back of the block right in front of the bell housing and installed the temp sender directly into the block with no tee.

3. Mine is actually mounted to the back of the port side head....I will still for sure check for ground there once its all up and running again.

I'm thinking that like alldodge said I may be running into a low flow/heat exchanger effect with the block or the thermostat is simply bad. Regardless I plan to try and remedy both before taking it out which by the way things look here in Michigan could be like October hahaha

Thanks for all the help guys!!

You know another thing to add here...I am currently putting a new motor in it and other than size everything will be the same in regards to sensor hook up and whatnot...that being said...the pan is currently off the motor waiting for install...is the "ideal" spot in the pan? I could easily weld a bung in the pan or replace the drain plug with an adapter while its off or would the spot in the filter housing work just as good?

I think both pan and real post cooler locations are ideal. (with switch)

So should I shoot for the pan then in this application? Could always add a post cooler spot as well.

The pan or before cooler wold be about the same. Would be easy now to add the pan with it being off, but placing on the remote filter is even easier

I say pan, nobody seems to be able to definitively tell if the port on our filter is after cooler. I will know in about a month.

Thanks a bunch guys!! Much appreciated!!