It's just a wireless box that hooks up to your existing reversing solenoid or relays. (Unless you just run a DPDT switch) Think of the hatch just like a winch. Instead of in/out it's just up/down.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...remote+install

The engine hatch switch on the dash is a "click on" - "click off" type rocker switch .......so most likely the solenoid would or should be "continuous". Test light shows 12V power to one side of solenoid & nothing going to the trim pump.

Ok, from you’re first post it read like you hit the switch in the down position and it stayed there. But the switch being momentary makes more sense. Yes, I agree the solenoid is a continuous duty solenoid.

OK just to continue, ..and thanks to all for your advice .....it was a blown fuse and also damaged the solenoids....I think the trim pump suffered damage also ...oil pushed out of the hydraulic ram that lifts the engine hatch.
I guess the the seals blew before the fuse did .....so I think the solenoids were a "continuous" type to begin with and as well as the rocker switch on the dash.....I ordered new "momentary" rocker switches .for the dash in conjunction with new "intermittent" solenoids..........I will try to rebuild the hydraulic ram with new seals!.......Does a hydraulic trim pump need to be bleed when filling it with new oil?...just about everything is shot!

I think you still want continuous duty solenoids. The solenoid stays pulled in, continuously, as long as your holding the switch which is 10-15 seconds or so. Just a thought, I could be wrong.

I found Cole-Hersee solenoids which were original to the boat when it was rigged on line & very inexpensive ...Marine type for $19 either "intermittent" ~ or ~ "Continuous"