Why would you need to activate the solenoid when the engines are off?

Sent you a PM. I'm doing some research on those - I'm intrigued.

I agree with ThisIslivin, The daytona ignition is the way to go. You can get away from the locked timing and make it idle like it should. I installed the system on a 900hp blower motor and it would idle at 700rpm, in and out of gear for hours without loading up or fouling plugs.

Joe - I've been researching this and just talked to ThisIsLivin. I'm definitely going to try this. Seems it could solve my idle issue and greet me away from having so much timing at idle. The prior owner went through a couple starters and I get tired of pulling engines......

Locked timing is a poor option. It is probably costing you lots of hp at 32 and it is hard to crank against.

I don't know what you have for power, but you will need to set your base timing around 15-16 deg and the ignition can advance 20 deg. You can then program any ignition curve that you want, up to 36 deg and only cranking against 16 degree timing. If you have blowers, I would suggest adding MAP sensors so you can pull a little timing under high boost. Notice that I said a little timing, maybe 1 deg for every pound of boost over 5. That is the beauty of it, you can program it to do whatever you want

I went back and looked, i am actually set at 34* locked timing.

I have NA 565's that made 802hp. Am looking forward to trying these. Have to get my new steel Jesels installed first that I just ordered - evidently production on those is several weeks. Spring will be here too soon

Carbs and Daytona ignitions before EFI.
low 12`s , 900-1000 out of gear
600rpm is in gear .
They do work pretty well in controlling the idle via timing.
Data logging feature is nice and 3D timing map based on rpm and MAP . probably wouldnt need that much with NA

It varies timing to keep the desired idle like EFI

you can see how it bounces all over ... timing is in the middle towards bottom , desired timing is 12*

Looks like CP Performance has pretty competitive pricing on them. Will have to see if their kit comes with the USB connector......

As I'm starting to think this through:

I have the red top MSD distributor. Does this need the rotor change that is described in the instructions or is that only the Mercury Maine distributor?. (I read it as the latter - only if using the MM)

I will leave the my current distributor set as it is - locked at 34* and then ensure I set the trigger timing parameters in the software to match this number.

The idle stabilization is then a different input where you can determine how much advance you want thrown at it when it falls below the desired RPM.

The 2D table can then be built and you can choose you base/start timing and then build the curve up to my Max of 34.

It is then a balance of how much idle timing you want, if that's more than you want at startup you can use the start retard function, and then giving yourself enough timing between idle and your max (34) to have a material effect on the idle when it needs stabilizing.....

Okay, SOME controls use a Honeywell/Cherry style industrial microswitch for the neutral safety switch. 99% of those switches have 3 terminals. Common. Normally Open, Normally Closed. If you do have one of those, then you just need to run a wire to the NO terminal and it will close in gear.