tiller arm?
 

Going to replace my tiller arm using the drill and tap method. My 89 Alpha has dimples on the drive that I think are used to locate the drill point. An I correct??? The templates I have seen are for an alpha with the larger flat area than mine with the multilevel grease fitting on the top of drive. Want to make sure I drill the correct location.

Thanks,

Since you have to get the kit anyhow I would just use the template that they give you.

Jon.

Patrick,

Be carefull with the one that has the grease fitting on it. My buddy just drilled one using the template and it was wrong for the older one. I will check with him and get back to you.

Tim T.

template problem!
 

Yes, It looks like the template they supply is for the newer still Gen 1 alpha and it wouldn't work on my alpha. I am thinking that the existing dimples is where you drill when a template doesn't apply.

I have the templates you need. I can send them to you, BUT they are at work. If you want them, I can send them on Monday, just send me your e-mail address.

I have personally done this job many times and it SUCKS! After doing so many of these, I feel that it is actually faster to just pull the motor and remove the transon assy and do the job correctly without hacking up the transom assy with those god awful holes that need to be drilled, ask audiofn, his boat sunk because of the ****ty plastic hex plugs that cap the holes,they had cracked and let water in. Also it is quite a chore to remove the swivel pin nut through the drilled holes and when you finally do get it off (2-4hrs of cursing) It is very entertaining trying to get the swivel pin,lower washer,tiller arm, upper washer and nut lined up by using one finger in each hole:mad:

Been there too many times, do it the right way and it will actually take you less time!

Good luck, Kurt.

I have to agree with Biggus. Thats the only way I will do them anymore.

I agree with Biggus, you will have a better experience doing it the correct way. You will also find out how easy it is to pull the engine on a Mercruiser. You can clean out the bilge and clean off the underside of the engine and really detail out the engine compartment. When I worked for Hallett Boats we had a machinest make some good looking billet caps that we epoxied into place instead the goofy black plastic plugs (it looked much better). I've done the job both ways and if you are working on your own boat you should take your time and pull the engine.
Sincerely
Dennis Moore
FAMILY AND PERFORMANCE BOATING MAGAZINE

I have both of my engines out right now for the same leaking seal right now. Also plan on repainting the transom assemblies and drives with IMRON this winter.

Maybe, I will go the engine removal method. Got nothing but time this winter!

I'm not sure what kind of boat you have or what engine....but I managed to get my entire transom assembly off WITHOUT removing the engine. I did it this way:

-Remove the lower unit
-Remove the REAR engine mounts (the ones on the transom plate)
-Loosen the front engine mount bolts till they offer about 1/2" of clearance above the mount
-If it is a big block, you will find that it is actually front wieght biased, you will now be able to tilt it forward....I did it with my foot on the t-stat housing.
-Cut a 2x4 so taht it will hold the engine at this tilted angle, use a rag on the transom end of it, and wedge it between the motor and the transom. This may sound dangerous, but I kicked it, bounced it, and shoved it and it would not move.
-Now you can get to the blots that hold the transom plate to the transom assembly.


I had to replace my gimbal ring this spring (ended up replacing the transom assembly instead with a used one I got from LRS on this board). This took me the better part of a day, by myself for the most part. Tinkerboater helped me put it all back together and re-aling the drive (VERY IMPORTANT!!!)


While you have it apart, do yourself this favor and check the tiller arm bolt. Try to tighten it....if it wont tighten up, remove the bolt and put a washer on it (it will not have one when you take it apart). My bolt had run out of thread and simply needed the extra space to get it back to tight. Tighter now than a 15.....never mind. No play in my steering.

Hope this helps. I did it this way simply because I was kinda in a hurry and didn't have immediate access to anything to pull the motor. But I think that if I had to do it again, I'd do it this way again. My motor is really a pain in the ASS to get out!!!!!

I did it on a 25' Checkmate. Lifted the engine far enough to move it forward a few inches.. got to the transom bolts and bingo.. off it came. Made the repairs and reassemble.. Nothing to it.. Believe me you will be much happier doing it the right way..
But then if you need an excuse to call the insurance company..for new boat??? Well just do it the right way..

Dick