Canadian. Tighten until bolt breaks, then back off a touch. :)

right on all points .. better clamping force is never a bad thing. I throw studs on everything , The price to safety ratio is very good.
Plus what is your time and frustration worth?
I would have shipped those arp bolts back to them with a harshly worded letter a week ago.:D

I think I'm ready.

According to that article didn’t it say happens to studs too ? “Because of the smoother head hole spot facing ?”

I have a couple of clickers and a dial. The clicker I like using is about thirty years old. I have them calibrated every couple of years.

I think you're missing the point or I'm not describing it properly. It may be helpful to read the Engine Labs link because I think it describe the situation really well.

The problem is that I come up on, let's say for practical purposes, 60. It clicks at 60. I think crank the wrench up to 70. I apply the torque needed to get to 70 and it loses it's torque. Meaning, you're pulling on it and then all of a sudden it becomes easy to pull and does not increase in torqued value. Does that make sense? If you real the article at the link, it will explain the torque and friction relationship and how the washer can act like a bearing when it no longer bites the surface of the cylinder head.

When the washer spins, I can get my 11 year old daughter to turn the wrench. The friction is gone.

I think you're right.

If your torquing bolts and they start to turn easier they are stretching. You need to replace them. OR you have bad threads in the block. Bolts can stretch and not look like it. You have to look closely at them. You'll see narrowing of the root diameter in the threads.

502 block,,all holes are blind,gen6 454's were open

The washer is not supposed to move, right? I watched the washer turn. When it turns with the bolt, it acts as a bearing and friction is vastly reduced. I've pulled the bolts and they're not showing any signs of stretch. The one that broke was exactly as you described: thinned and then cracked.

Replacing the entire set did exactly the same thing. It made it to I think 40 then slipped, then grabbed, and I was able to continue. That was a on a couple of bolts but in the end cooperated. I've had the bolts out of the second engine twice with the problem popping up randomly as described above.

Great article, SB and I definitely learned something today. To quote from the article: "ARP showed us that Chrysler is now integrating small pawls or teeth into the outside edge of the head bolt washer where it contacts the cylinder head. These teeth will grip the head and prevent the washer from spinning as the head bolt is tightened, preserving the proper torque."

Maybe the solution could be to use a hammer and punch to create a small knurl effect on the bottom of the washer which will easily bite into an aluminum head?