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Originally Posted by Shotgunn
(Post 4786685)
Holy smokes! way beyond my skill level with a welder. Guess I will just stick with carbs
Originally Posted by TomZ
(Post 4786686)
Not that hard at all for someone familiar with TIG welding. And Eddie has the process down perfect.
I’m going to run FAST’s dual channel AFR meter. It’s a little over $500 with 20-foot cables. Being able to see what the engines are doing in the boat is important to me. Next year, maybe FI so the bungs will already be there and ready.
Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
(Post 4786706)
LOL
I took mine to welder and picked it up a few days later , but if you can`t handle that then yes stick with carbs. |
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4786814)
Okay , it says you can use sny magnetic pick up dist. Which the small cap hei/EST/voyager GM/Mercruiser distributor is.
Also says other (than Holley’s) hall effect distributors may be able to. So, possible the Merc IV:V dist could to. Obviously timing module eould not be used. Proof would be in someone trying. I’ve read on the forums that you have to do some trial and error stuff to get them to work. A concern was that Holley wouldn’t support these configurations I think it was scaring off some from attempting to get them working. Could very well be the target audience. I don’t think that would be an issues for folks around here. |
Originally Posted by Baja Rooster
(Post 4786826)
I found a local welder, sent him the video, and he gave it back to me a couple days later. He even already had the bungs in stock.
That’s what I did. I still have the wideband in the port side bank with the EFI in the SB bank and I can keep an eye on them both. On occasion there’s about .5 difference in the AFRs and it’s a redundant way to keep an eye on things. I had my carb “dialed” in running perfectly, but installed the wideband and in the window of about 500rpms where I cruise the most it leaned out to the high 14s and occasionally the 15s. Would’ve likely toasted the engine. So even with carbs I highly recommend a wideband. I know a lot of the vendors will install them if you send the exhaust bits back to them. |
New to the efi world but have bought a Holley sniper system to install on a single engine fountain, the problem we are having is where to run the return fuel line back into the fuel system . What is the best way to get it back in the loop ?
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Originally Posted by Yellow Fever
(Post 4787015)
New to the efi world but have bought a Holley sniper system to install on a single engine fountain, the problem we are having is where to run the return fuel line back into the fuel system . What is the best way to get it back in the loop ?
Is the fuel fill hose nearby ? See for two fill hose size options: https://www.cpperformance.com/vsearc...Tank%20Adapter https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...55b542222.jpeg |
If you route back to the separator, you could run into heating/vapor lock issues. Merc used the cool fuel system to combat this.
SB’s suggestion of running it back to the fill hose is best. The tank then ends up being the heat sink. |
Originally Posted by Baja Rooster
(Post 4786826)
I found a local welder, sent him the video, and he gave it back to me a couple days later. He even already had the bungs in stock.
That’s what I did. I still have the wideband in the port side bank with the EFI in the SB bank and I can keep an eye on them both. On occasion there’s about .5 difference in the AFRs and it’s a redundant way to keep an eye on things. I had my carb “dialed” in running perfectly, but installed the wideband and in the window of about 500rpms where I cruise the most it leaned out to the high 14s and occasionally the 15s. Would’ve likely toasted the engine. So even with carbs I highly recommend a wideband. I know a lot of the vendors will install them if you send the exhaust bits back to them. |
Originally Posted by TomZ
(Post 4787042)
If you route back to the separator, you could run into heating/vapor lock issues. Merc used the cool fuel system to combat this.
SB’s suggestion of running it back to the fill hose is best. The tank then ends up being the heat sink. |
I'm planning this myself on my 454 mag.... my plan was to pump fuel from the stock pump/filter into to a surge tank setup with built in high pressure pump, then run that to the sniper setup.
Sidebar question.... I currently only run premium mostly to avoid ethanol in the carb and risk it gumming it up over winter. This engine does not need the high octane fuel, especially as cool as they run with only around 8:1-8.5:1 compression. So, one of the fringe benefits I expect with EFI is to be able to run standard fuel without the problems the carb has with it... 87octane which around here has 10% ethanol. Is that a realistic expectation, or do I still want to stick with premium (over $4 a gallon now into my 88 gallon tank)? |
you can run the return to the water separator filter head if you have a port available without issue if done correctly
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