Is the top of the intake possibly painted where it mates to the T-stat housing and gasket??
The sender grounds through the crush rivets in the tstat gasket. Did use sealer on the sender?? Can't do that or it won't ground.

I had a cooling issue and looked at that same aftermarket thermostat housing - i skipped it because I already had a problem I was trying to solve...

Did say its starts at 130
If your sure the gauge is accurate

Tested gauge prior to starting. Water pump hose and intake water passage gets warm to touch just not warm in up rest of the way for some reason. Gonna change stat cause it’s not new. Just looking for some crazy thing someone else may of had. This is actual set up


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c92d0af76.jpeg

Look like a Oil temp gauge
Water temp would be no higher then around 240
Head gasket blows around 210 - 220

Either way its still cold

I'd still be concerned about 190F. There is no room for error.

We are getting hung up on the temp for some reason. I’m more worried about getting the temp up to where it’s stated And why or how it could be bypassing and not letting water stay in block long enough to warm up

Been looking for a exploded view of the internal paths in the housing, but unable to find. The main flow from the intake should be separated by the bottom of the thermostat. There would be a small bypass hole used to allow air to escape

At this point I would remove the housing and see if the port is to large or its open between the raw water side and the motor


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a5f963af13.jpg

Also the spacer (item d) must stay fully up against the thermostat when fastened to the intake. If it doesn't water just keeps circulating around the thermostat

Does the actual temp probe stick down below the reducer adaptor? (as in submersed in water). If it is fully shrouded it may be reading the manifold metal temp not the water temp.