Hard starting 2017 traverse
 

Thought I’d ck before taking in or begin anything in depth. I realize when cold with thick oil etc can add to the problem but not like this. Thought it was a weak battery so rather than texting with a load tester I just replaced it. No change. 25 deg morning it will crank for up to 4 plus seconds it seems. Summer months or when warm no issues. Fuel filter? Injectors?

Tks for any help.

hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel rail cycle the car on and wait like 3-4 seconds for pump to prime then turn off...dont start the car....and see if it hold pressure...could be a fuel pressure regulator going bad and bleeding down...

how many miles are on it?

Hey Mike good to hear from you and Wally. Tks. Close to 78k.

i agree with wally,first thing i would do is throw a new set of spark plugs in it.i know they should be good to 100000 miles but ya never know till you get them out.

Slow crank vs long crank before fire is two different things. Which is it ?

You have a scanner ? Ist thing i check is letting it sit over night and before running ck coolant temp vs air temp. If iff mire than 10-15f degrees, it’s coolant temp tine.

Also, if you user super for gas, see with gas station when their super tank was filled. Summer blend has tough time firing up in winter.

Thanks SB. I have an older scanner that’s not compatible with so might have to run it in and get the ecu cked out. It’s all stock and runs great with the exception of starting when cold. Seems like the injectors aren’t getting a correct signal or lack of pressure. Have no clue! That’s why I like my 76 Chevy truck. 😂

Agree withSB on fuel. Are you just running 87?

yes 87

I say you have some bad EZ Mart gas. You wouldn't be the first or the last. :lolhit: Bad things happen when your fuel tanks are 20 feet from the lake and under the water table.

so , to make sue , it cranks no problem but takes s bit to fire up and start ?

Common issue, Decarbon valves,also know as direct injection service

Thanks. Good ol’ direct injection carbon issues. Uggh. Yup, found this Service Bulletin on it:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...37635-9999.pdf

Cycle the key on and off a few times before trying to start it. If that helps, then your fuel pressure in the system is bleeding off.

Even at their new facility? Have heard some horror stories over the years also. Especially with water in their diesel.

It does start or roll over with more effort however I put that off to the cold oil etc. I also thought the new battery would solve but didn’t. Might need to test the starter to see how many amps it drawing. ???

Tks 🤨

Will do that in the morning. I’ve been meaning to ck such but forgetting. Or even pause before cranking over.

We have a 2018 equinox with the 1.5L DI turbo motor (wife's buggy, but surprisingly peppy/nimble for something smaller than a Pepsi bottle and 33 mpg everywhere it goes). Brand new even that thing would get carbon buildup in the cylinders and cause misfires/CEL when you stomped on it for first time in a while. Just like the Ford Eco-boost would get early on (that sometimes caused rods to exit the block stage-left). Dealership replaced plugs/coils and tested injectors and it still happened. Argued with the service manager about oil deposits and pre-ignition but they denied it, looked at me like I was crazy. Another friend at same dealership agreed with me and said to change every 3,000 miles to prevent (sorry, that is so overkill on synthetics anymore). Was running on the complimentary dealership GM Dexos oil changes at that time. When those were gone, I switched to Valvoline synthetic oil and it would still happen occasionally but far less. Running Mobil 1 now and it hasn't happened since that was put in and this thing is run about 7,000 miles between changes (usually when oil life meter gets to 0% then about another 1,000 miles haha). These new engines are extremely sensitive to oil and its propensity to leave deposits, also proves that good ole Mobile 1 is still one of the best shelf oils, and the Valvoline syn is no slouch in tests either.

Good to know - yup it’s ready for a change a month ago btw. Glad you mentioned. I bought the car in a rush site unseen as I was desperate however pretty impressed with the get up and go and comfort ride. I think I get closer to 16-17 mph.

Didn’t leave til a little later this morning (still very cold) however I did leave the key on til pump shut off then cycled on off a few times however it did hold fine but what I did notice the car fired up much quicker. My question is was I not leaving key on long enough til FP stopped. My ears at 54 now suck from years of gun powder to high octane etc abuse. 🙄

could be bravo-itus...........:bunnydance:

You shouldn't need to wait until the fuel pump stops. My 2001 2500HD with an 8.1 was doing the basically the same thing. Also, the fuel gauge was acting up. I talked to the dealer and he told me the tank sender and fuel pump were one part and most likely the check valve in the fuel pump was bad and letting fuel seep back to the tank. On a cold start, if I cycled the key 2-3 times it fired right up. If I just tried to fire it on the first key turn it pretty much would not start. Cycle the key and it would fire right up. I traded it in before fixing it.

Tks.

I had a northstar caddie that did the same thing, was the regulator

That engine hold up ok?