OT- need info about nitrous
 

planning to install a hidden nos system.where do you put selenoids in this picture?is it also going under the manifold?

you can put them anywhere you want to hide them, side wall of engine compartment

You could take and old MSD box and mount them inside of it.;)

Just remember the further away you have the soloniods the softer the nitrious will hit, which in a boat application is probably better. Also fuel pressure and bottle pressure are highly important. I used to run 250hp of nitrious thru a basically stock 302 (you saw the pix) and had no problems.

i believe inside the engine is perfect for hiding but do you think heat is a problem?!?
-side wall or msd box is also cool..

I wouldn't install them inside the engine just because sometimes a piece of dirt or something can get past the filter causing the nitrious soloniod to hang up, and if it is in the motor it will be a pain in the ass to fix.
As far as heat is conserned , I really don't know.

I wouldnt use nitrous, you can shoot maybe 15-20 seconds at a time through the engine, then you need to idle till the engine cools down. What about a twin turbo system? (only a few times more $ than N2O!!)

Find some street racers in your area for ideas. Selenoids can be hidden anywhere you can think of. Inside a large flame arrestor for instance. Inside a fake stereo amp would be novel. Hiding the bottle is the trick. Maybe a fake Halon system ???????

Under seats, look at the Rx-7 from the fast and the furious, Nitrous bottles are hidden under the passenger seat which flips up.

Oh God ,
I think I would rather have bamboo splinters shoved under my fingernails than watching the " The Fast and the Furious" !!!:D

One question, Why would the engine need to be cooled down after spraying it ? If you engine is heating up when you spraying it you've got problems:p

Sounds like a lot of amateur answers to a simple question.
You can mount it ANYWHERE you want. Just remember that the solenoids will need routine cleaning, so mount them in an easily accessed location. The further from the nozzle, the softer the hit, as was stated before. Let`s not mention that God-awful excuse for a film called "The Fast and the Furious". That film has set hot-rodding back 20 years. Who has ever heard of "Naaaz" ??? Freaks.....
For a proffesional answer to ANY or ALL of your Nitrous Oxide questions, go to:
www.nitrousexpress.com
These guys know their ****!

Good Day!.......:)

Nitrous is a cool-burning fuel. The expansion of the compressed gas creates a very cool charge. The nitrogen in the mix is a damping agent and as the Germans discovered, they could feed it to their fighter planes as long as they needed to get above the allies and drop onto their backs.

Most boat lakerace situations only need 15-20 seconds of hit to "win". Also, at topspeed, a momentary hit of the bottle can free the hull up so that when you let off the button, the boat remains at that elevated speed (getting over the hump - lifting another strake free or whatever).

Tim, am guessing that a hidden system is of premium importance??? Get a couple of 8D diesel battery cases from a truck shop (leave the guts with them cause that is what they send in for recycling). Hollow out the battery cases and keep your bottle & hi pressure solenoid in there (gasoline solenoid somewhere else). Can run your lines through red and black battery cable insulator to the starter area (can remove it from the cables by boiling it in water then slipping it off)... just ideas.

I agree the people at nitriousexpress are the ones to talk to.A properly set up system on a modified engine is expensive to set up and run.You will need a timing control module a fuel cell,3-4 gal.,for racing gas properly located nozzles and a reliable fuel system.After this figure the price of nos and racing gas,one season can get expensive.On a stock engine you can use a more production type system,but if engine is highly modified its needs to be a custom system..

when i use to street race a friend had some dummy water outlets put in his intake and the steel braided lines ran through them up to the firewall where the heater core use to be. On more than one occasion i hadto disassamble a solenoid to clean some trash out, also the smaller selenoids dont seem to like heat a whole lot.

Sayn it because theres a place to mount the bottle.

Dont tell me you guys dont think a 4 cyl is fast ;)
LOL!!!!!!!

I forgot for a while there that N2O adds a cooling effect...

Paint your bottle red and put a hose and dummy gauge on it to make it look like a fire extenguisher. I like the MSD box solenoid idea.

DO NOT mount your solenoids inside your engine !!! They are not designed to work in that type of environment. Hidding them in a marine application your best choice is a fake box, or inside your flame arrestor. The further you mount the solenoids away you will also need to change your tune-up. The key problem to running a system like this under your intake manifold is that you will need to remove the intake manifold any time you want to change or fine tune the calibration.

The simplest thing to do is to have someone put spray bars (like from a plate) into the back of your intake manifold. You would then just change the jets there to change the tune up. You can run the lines to the back of your hull covering them in larger rubber hose, or covering the rest of your hoses with steel braid so that it all blends in. With all of the lines there most people would not notice it.

Word of advice, make sure to use some type of timing retard device like an MSD box, use a seperate electric fuel pump (with two pressure switches to disarm the system if you loose fuel or oil pressure) Run a W.O.T. ( Wide Open Throttle ) switch so that as soon as you lift off W.O.T. your system will shut off.

When its really hot and humid my tunnel ram will frost over about 1/3 of the way down the runners. The plates are always white after a spray down, and sometimes get 'frosty' on hot humid days from the carbs alone....

Don't think we'll be seeing any VTEC's in marine apps EVER!:rolleyes: :D

Hyperbaja; do you have any link to cool-priced turbo systems?

Tim, the person to talk to about turbos would be JUST ONCE. He took a turbo and intercooler from a junk yard and put them into a saturn....
Hmmm.... I wonder if that car is for sale, I gotta get a car soon...

try www.greddy.com
www.HKSUSA.com

thnx hyper!

I own Nitrous Oxide Plus... An official NOS authorized dealer. For one, they are right, don't mount the selonoids under the intake. They are not made to withstand the heat. Second, how much are you going to spray? They have an inside the air cleaner (flame arrestor in this case) kit wich will allow you to add about 100-125 hp. It is very easy to hide and won't call too much attention.

Consider the complications you may face before you do this. What are you going to do about props? Nitrous is only good for WOT. If you have propped your boat to run without NOS, are you going to put a larger prop on to compensate for the additional HP? I've been using NOS in auto applications for over 15 years. You get to red line a lot faster, but either on the street or strip, it's over in 10 seconds or less and you are shifting gears. Cars don't run at a consistant RPM such as a boat.

I've thought that getting up to top speed, this would be a great idea, but what happens when you hit max rpm? If you do decide to go this route, I suggest a window switch. This will allow you to turn the NOS on at a oredetermined rpm and to shut it off at a predetermined rpm (around 500 rpms below redline).

If its theroy you are interested in, check out my web site

http://home.stny.rr.com/nosplus

If you have any other questions, feel free to e-mail me form the website. Hope this helps! Dave

first nitrous is in no way a cool burning gas. Nitrous is an oxidizer it is like oxygen on an oxy/acetlyn torch alone it is not flamible but as a catalyst it burns extremely hot so hot that the gasoline being added to the system with the nitrous is to cool the cylinder temp.just because the intake is cold that is from the gas decompressing and has nothing to do with burning temp. if you don't think nitrous oxide burns hot run a 100shot and no added fuel to cool the charge and melts the piston to the cly. wall thats not cool burning. the cool pre charge does help emensely with forced induction because it does eliminate turbo lag by killing some of that superheated air coming from the turbo this helps the fuel atomize better in the air charge.
Timucin: on a boat I'd avoid nitrous just because its to hard to dail in a prop don't you think.? I say turbo's all the way
axapowell is right on.

Thats what I was thinking of, cooling the air for a turbo.

maybe axapowell can shed more light, but for years I have continued to hear that the nitrogen works as a damping agent, cushioning the chemical reaction.

Of course nitrous will melt a motor with no added fuel. Nitrous is not a fuel at all, it is an oxidizer like you say. Adding oxidizer with no additional fuel is akin to going full lean under max load. We all know what happens then.

The reason one adds more fuel with the nitrous is that regardless of what you feed a motor, you must provide a relatively "close" stoichiometric mix of fuel and oxidizer. Too much fuel is rich, too little fuel is lean. The gas is not added as a cooling agent, it is added cause it needs to be there to burn.

Nitrous is nothing more or less than liquid supercharging - instead of PUMPING more oxidizer into the engine (roots blower, whipple, procharger, etc) you are spraying it in. However you add oxidizer, you must add fuel or you melt.

Course maybe I'm way off here..

Just a funny (well not really) story of a nitrious run gone bad.

We were at the dragstrip about 10yrs ago (Detroit Dragway) and there was this really nice 64-65 Chevy II , with a 10 inch slick. It had a SBC in it with 2 plates and a Fogger.
Well it made a pass blew up around the 660 mark and hit the gaurdrail (noone was hurt). Well thru out the day people kept walking by the were the Chevy II was pitted and coming back shaking thier heads. Well after about an hour of this we decided to see what the big deal was about... WELL I don't think I've ever seen anything quite like it before or since. As we walk up to the trailer the guy (driver ..not the owner of the car) was standing there with some people holding part of the block with oil filter attached , part of the trans bell housing and a corner of the cylinder head...all attached. We then peek under the car and saw more carnage... the crank had broken in half and was twisted 90 degrees so the broken end was facing us , in doing this it wrapped the oil pan around the drag link that is why it hit the guardrail. What a mess. I think the only things save able were one cylinder head , and the intake. The carbs were even wasted (the throttle blades were all bent up from the explosion):eek:

Mcollinstn: what you are saying about the stoich. is corect and a lean mix will allways burn hotter than rich, maybe I didn't explain what I was saying very well but wat I meant is not that the added gas is for cooling but that no lean mixture without nitrous can ever burn as hot as with the nitrous, just trying to explain that juice doesn't burn cool and I was using the cooling effect of richening the mixture to give reference to temp. Bottom line is I've been building nitrous motors for a number of years now and I know one thing is if you keep your stoich. right and don't overadvance your timing a reasonable nitrous charge is no more dangerous to your motor than the gas you put in it.

J.O.

Roger, I'm with you.

I've seen nitrous done on everything from kids' 4-wheelers to jetskis to full-on pro 5.0 Mustangs.

The guys who play the game with nitrous shutoffs tied to fuel pressure switches that kill the juice when the fuel pressure drops all still have motors. The idiots who change the juice orifices without adding fuel all end up with scrapmetal.

Just Once;

Good summary.....AMEN to your point of a reasonable NOS shot not being any more dangerous to an engine the the gas you put in it. ;) :cool:

My point is the ambient temp of the intake charge is "super cooled" on the squeeze going into the combustion chamber which the motor likes.....Of course you must add more fuel to compensate for this.:eek: :)