Received the injectors, did a initial before cleaning flow test. Found #7 stuck at about 20% open vs the rest during first test , #4 down 30% or so (flowing 60 cc vs a average of 80, 85 .. I then cleaned the 2 bad injectors first (in my ultrasonic while toggling the pintles), I didn't really expect 7 to straighten out but it did, , retested , they now flowed fine against the other 6.
I then cleaned all of them extensively, installed new inlet screens , ran them on a test on a warm.up cycle on my machine called inductance test for 2 hours pretty constantly. They never sputtered, stuck, acted up at all.
I then performed all my normal test at different rpms, pw, etc and a auto sweep test. They all flowed within the spec of +/-4%.
Since it's a boosted engune and it sees 50,55 psi of fuel pressure, I did my higher rpm/ms test at 50 psi vs 3 bar as I have seen injectors act much worse at higher pressures and hot, so I always try to replicate real world.
There on their way back, boats gonna be night and day different. I made a video showing #7 stuck but even after being on here 16 years, I still have never figured out how to upload a video, just says mp4 something or another not correct format. Here's a picture though of some of the rust that came out of the injector screens when I was extracting them.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1a6a8366e5.jpg

That is good news for him and most likely his entire issue.

The only way to get a video on OSO is to upload it to Youtube and then copy and paste the URL for the video.

Question is,where did the rust come from? Seen a few fuel rails rust internally.

Good stuff ArcticFriends and OP. :thumbs
Smart move to pull injectors and then send to arctic.
I uses vaseline too until i got a big tube of food grade oring silicone grease for our osmosis and ultraviolet water filter system. I now use that. :) I’ll take pic in a bit.

Exactly that.
Edit in: i have pulled several water separators off boats that where internally rusty. Couple extremely rusty. I slways see what pours out when i change them.


I see it on cars/trucks. Usually the injector that has it’s screen filled with rust junk first is the one at a dead end of a fuel rail. Like #7 cyl on a 5.3l ls powered truck for example. I’ll find pic of fuel line on intake.

Okay, here is the 8.1/ 496 set up on intake. It’s configured similarly other ls truck deals. See how #7 (and some others) is at a dead head (in respect to flow) ?


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f7eae73a07.jpg

So, another reason to do the following winterization strp i learned from member sutphen30 very long time ago.

Remove water separator (add new or dump out) snd fill with fresh fuel 2 stroke oil mix. Many 2 stroke oils have fuel stabilizer mixed in. If not, add a splash of stabil. Run engine, when you see slight blue smoke from exhaust , the mix is in and being burnt. I do this for all fuel injected snd carbed engines.

Some people remove inlet line at separator and hook small gas filled of this mix to inlet and then run engine.

Not a good typer. Hope that makes sense.

Edit in: I just did that to this sea doo boat other day. You can see the fuel line i added to inlet so i could run on a small 2 gal gas can (not pictured) premix of fuel/oil.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...563464706.jpeg

Figured as much!

Smitty,

Thanks for the quick turnaround. I can't wait to get it all back together.

I wondered about using anything "petroleum" on O-rings. I know things like motor oil and WD-40 will attack standard Buna-N O-rings, causing them to swell and soften up. Didn't know if Vaseline did this as well.

I got a small packet of what appears to be white, semi-translucent grease from Mosetti with the new plug wires, presumably to lubricate the boots. Would this be the silicone grease we are all referring to?

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

That is funny I used to do the 2 stroke oil in the fuel separator, when I had to winterize.

SB,

I have a new inline fuel filter and filter/separator on the way and intend to replace both. I am also intending to remove the fuel rail altogether and clean and inspect it for internal rust. Smitty also advised to pump some fuel through after installing new filters and make sure all sediment/particulates were cleared from the line.

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991