Tunellcram
#31
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Dan, Just a thought..... Get some Dykem spray layout dye, and give each intake tunnel a shot or two, making sure to sufficiently cover the mismatch. Let it dry. Remove your intake. Scribe a line around the perimeter of the Dykem. With an 1/8" carbide end mill in a Dremel and a steady hand, carve away that mismatch and forget it. A little bit of lacquer thinner and the Dykem overspray is gone. Yes, you will have to be very careful to avoid getting any aluminum chips into the nooks and crannies, and very diligent in removing any that manage to get in them. Dykem Spray Blue Thanks. Brad.(937)545-8991
#33
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If you start grinding a taper on head intake port, that would probably affect the air flow into the head and make it very turbulent and flow less. It will also kill the value of those heads. You would never be able to sell them, if he wanted to. It's a shame the intake was ported so much. It looks like it is ported larger than even the gasket. The correct way would be to fix the intake. Years ago i had a friend helping me do some work on my house. He started doing something and i said, "that doesn't match the other side of the house". He said, "you don't match something that is wrong. You fix it correctly". Sucks the op is having these troubles. But i certainly know how he feels. It could be my life story. 
#34
Registered

If you start grinding a taper on head intake port, that would probably affect the air flow into the head and make it very turbulent and flow less. It will also kill the value of those heads. You would never be able to sell them, if he wanted to. It's a shame the intake was ported so much. It looks like it is ported larger than even the gasket. The correct way would be to fix the intake. Years ago i had a friend helping me do some work on my house. He started doing something and i said, "that doesn't match the other side of the house". He said, "you don't match something that is wrong. You fix it correctly". Sucks the op is having these troubles. But i certainly know how he feels. It could be my life story. 
#35
Registered

If you start grinding a taper on head intake port, that would probably affect the air flow into the head and make it very turbulent and flow less. It will also kill the value of those heads. You would never be able to sell them, if he wanted to. It's a shame the intake was ported so much. It looks like it is ported larger than even the gasket. The correct way would be to fix the intake. Years ago i had a friend helping me do some work on my house. He started doing something and i said, "that doesn't match the other side of the house". He said, "you don't match something that is wrong. You fix it correctly". Sucks the op is having these troubles. But i certainly know how he feels. It could be my life story. 
All fair points, pretty much what I expected, and I wouldn't disagree with any of it. But....
In an absence of any engine building experience, I try and rely on the physics involved, which I do have a pretty strong grasp of. Not to suggest this overrides real world empirical knowledge. In a NA build, a less than smooth transition from intake to head would likely be more problematic. Obviously, a restriction inducing contour would be far worse, which this wouldn't be. But, in a boosted build, such as these, I wouldn't think it would matter so much, even if less than ideal, and it would certainly be better than that square corner the oncoming fuel/air has to navigate. Hell, just knocking that square shoulder off at a 45° angle would be better than what he's got now. At least then the fuel wouldn't collect on them. I don't see any gasket exposed, so doing this work wouldn't compromise anything that isn't already compromised. I don't see any fixing the intake. I would never trust JB Weld or any other filler material. I've seen way too many chunks come loose in our model boat engines over the years. With the heat, vibration and fuel, that would be a hard no from me. Welding it would be a potential option, but that would mean a FARQ-TON of welding to achieve anything near a smooth transition, and that would warp the crap out of the gasket faces of the intake, requiring machining, putting him back in the same spot. I also don't think Dan started this build with resale in mind. That said, it is of consideration that, should he decide to abandon the intake for whatever reason, this work would, in fact, render the heads to the scrap heap, as well. If I were into this project as far as Dan is, I'd work the heads to make them as smooth a transition as possible, assemble the engines and run them until they blew up (hopefully a good long while) and start over with the wisdom he's acquired to this point (learning from his mistakes, as he puts it). From what I've gathered talking with him, I'm betting he'll be building the next engines in his head as he's running around with these under his butt, pretty much from the time they get wet the first time.
Dan's obviously got some things to consider. I'm really hoping he gets these beasts running right. He's promised me a ride come PokerRun weekend at Cumberland.

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991
Last edited by Brad Christy; 02-08-2023 at 07:12 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Brad Christy:
articfriends (03-03-2023), ICDEDPPL (02-11-2023)
#36
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Indeed. Chips get everywhere. And I mean EVERYWHERE. I would never even consider doing this with the heads in place. Which is most likely why Dan said he was "sending it for now". My only reason for making the suggestion is that NOW is the time to do something, if you're gonna.
Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991
#37
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#38

Brad the heads and all valvetrain is installed.
I hate going backwards, and I need to start making progress if you`re getting a ride

#40
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Just so your priorities are in order.

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991