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Originally Posted by DrFeelgood
(Post 4843872)
Update:
Got the balancer off, with the right tool things are just a breeze. Cam is out. Seeing that lobe up close and personal makes me glad the cam is out. Overall the rest of the cam looks ok, though there's a rough spot on the rear bearing journal. Turns out this cam is NOT stock. It's a Crower 01401LM. From Crower's site: Performance level - Beast - Superior upper bottom, mid-range and top end power. INT/EXH - Dur @ .050” Lift: 213°/222° RR: 1.7/1.7 Gross Lift: .512”/.540” LSA: 112° RPM: 1850 to 5000 Redline: 5500 So, I guess I buy one of these same Crower cams and slide it back in, assuming that somebody at some point tuned these ECMs for the cam? Input is welcomed. -Good time to have injectors gone thru. If you send them to arcticfriends maybe send ecu too so he can see if stock tune ? Hr knows these 502moi’s inside and out. - if S30’s 502 mpi’s have oe cams are in good shape consider these. I don’t see That crower cam having much, if any, better performance than the stock cam. That grind Maybe good for a tow truck ? :wink Just round table discussion |
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4843902)
Maybe worth a consideration ?
-Good time to have injectors gone thru. If you send them to arcticfriends maybe send ecu too so he can see if stock tune ? Hr knows these 502moi’s inside and out. - if S30’s 502 mpi’s have oe cams are in good shape consider these. I don’t see That crower cam having much, if any, better performance than the stock cam. That grind Maybe good for a tow truck ? :wink Just round table discussion Smitty went thru my injectors earlier this year. I already PM'd him to see if he can look at my tune and help me decide if I should go back to the stock cam or what... THanks for the input! |
So today I determined that the Stbd motor appears to have the same Crower cam in it, but in much better condition. Not sure how I feel about that, but I'll admit I was hoping to find the stock cam instead.
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It might be worth checking the open load on the valve spring in the bad lobe position and compare it to a few others or original design specification.
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I would contact Crower. You never know, they may do something for you on the cam. I don't know about recently, but that company has a stellar reputation for standing behind their well designed, high quality parts. I bought a set of their stainless roller rockers years ago and noticed one rocker had a little hitch in it when changing cams, well they had me send back the whole set and replaced the bearings in all of them. They had the candor to admit that they were not happy with the original bearing supplier. I am now going to use them again in an upcoming project.. That may be a cam core issue - cast core or not, there are zillions of examples of cast core cams giving excellent service life with high performance american V8's.
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Originally Posted by Long Stroke
(Post 4844299)
It might be worth checking the open load on the valve spring in the bad lobe position and compare it to a few others or original design specification.
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Originally Posted by liquidlounge
(Post 4844313)
I would contact Crower. You never know, they may do something for you on the cam. I don't know about recently, but that company has a stellar reputation for standing behind their well designed, high quality parts. I bought a set of their stainless roller rockers years ago and noticed one rocker had a little hitch in it when changing cams, well they had me send back the whole set and replaced the bearings in all of them. They had the candor to admit that they were not happy with the original bearing supplier. I am now going to use them again in an upcoming project.. That may be a cam core issue - cast core or not, there are zillions of examples of cast core cams giving excellent service life with high performance american V8's.
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Do you know the history of these motors. What was done and when and how many hours since the rebuild/refresh or whatever was done.
There was an old FRAM filter commercial years ago "you can pay me now or you can pay me later". So, you can do the bare bones minimum and hope nothing bites next boating season. Or, you pull both motors and go through and refresh them and start the next season with a degree of comfort that all is good. |
Originally Posted by 33bajaoutlaw
(Post 4844413)
Do you know the history of these motors. What was done and when and how many hours since the rebuild/refresh or whatever was done.
There was an old FRAM filter commercial years ago "you can pay me now or you can pay me later". So, you can do the bare bones minimum and hope nothing bites next boating season. Or, you pull both motors and go through and refresh them and start the next season with a degree of comfort that all is good. Port motor will be totally gone through this fall/winter. If starboard motor doesn't run perfectly after head refresh then I'll pull it and have it gone through as well. I'm not stressing about it. After dumping $45K into my old Cigarette for 2 new engine builds from a supposedly well regarded marine engine builder, and still having an unreliable boat, I'm taking the low buck approach this time and not expecting miracles. |
I get it. When I got my boat I was told approx 50 hrs on rebuilt motors and 40 on drives. Going thru all the receipts nothing on the heads. When questioned was told springs were tested and ok. So what he told me was 500+ hours on Hp500's tired springs. They will be history this winter.
Believe nothing of what you hear and half of what you see. |
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