I think the oil pan from an 8.1 vehicle like the 2500/3500 trucks would work on this being it's a Gen 7 based block.

Correct.
Its my understanding that the PSI 535 and GM 496 have the same pan rail bolt pattern... so the 496 pan and pump pickup should swap over to the 535 without issue.

Im going to start shopping for small parts awhile.
Can anyone tell me what ARP studs will fit the heads and mains ?
I assume the head studs are same as stock 496... and main studs are same as Gen4 big blocks (1/2" std threads) ???

And in response to the earlier comment about the exhaust manifold fasteners... it does appear to be an 8mm metric thread.
I have a Bridgeport in my shop... and might just convert them all over to 3/8-16 like they should be.

Also trying to figure out how to make the valvetrain adjustable... since it currently uses non-adjustable LS7 rockers.

The 496 Gen 7 has metric main bolts (stamped 11.9), so I bet that PSI is also metric. The cool thing is all the main caps are 4 bolt, even the ends.

Just buy Metric head bolts for the 8.1/496 from ARP. I bought mine from Summit, but you can ask ARP, they have them.

Do you really want to start converting to SAE? Everything on this engine is metric. The metric bolts are easily obtainable for every part externally and the internal stuff is available from ARP as well. That will get messy when you start bolting up all the alternator and closed cooling stuff and half is metric and the other half is SAE..

As for the rockers, yes they can be converted to adjustable rocker arm nuts but then you need new valve covers since the nuts wont have the clearance. Again, the bolt and go rockers seem crazy, but they work, and there are a jillion 496's in the field that run fine and even in a performance app like my 600's - they work fine after hundreds of hours.

I agree with Keith's advice. I ran the Raylar bolt on stainless rockers in the past and they worked great. They fit under the stock valve cover which is sure easy, as there aren't any aftermarket covers available for this engine.

If you do want to go adjustable you can, I did with a set of T&D rockers on Raylar heads. I had to use a 1/2" Medice Mfg spacer to make it clear the stock valve cover. The factory exhaust cleared just fine after the spacer install.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7703de45b5.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ec2084a8f8.jpg

That looks like a nice set up.

What did you do with the coil packs? Are the plug wires long enough?

The plug wires were plenty long, coil packs in stock location. With the Whipple the plate for the PCM gets moved a little anyway and it all worked. You can see the cover spacers in this picture. This is a Raylar 800HP package except for the upgraded rockers.

Note: That oil filter is not plumbed in, I run a remote mount on the transom. All high flow stuff.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b3b0959b84.jpg

^^^^^^ I assume then the Kmart filter is for shock value when hatch is popped. :lolhit:

Yes it is!!!! Vintage from the 70s!

The problem I will have going to adjustable rockers is the fact they are not a conventional stud-mounted rocker. They are LS7 exhaust rockers on all 16 valves.
I guess I will need to point this out to my cylinder head guy when he does the valve job so he keeps the valve tips where they belong. If it works for the LS guys... I guess it will work for me too. lol

And yeah... I will probably just keep the metric stuff where it already is. It's easier to source metric hardware than to re-thread every hole.

It's my understanding that these PSI blocks are in fact standard threads in the mains... so that part is easy. A regular 4-bolt BBC main stud kit will work.
Only oddball part will be the metric head bolts/studs... but I see ARP has that covered also.

Sofar... everything ive read that is related to these PSI blocks is that the mains are in fact standard 1/2-13 threads, but the head bolts are metric.

I havent snatched the oil pans off these motors yet to confirm... but eventually once I have them home and on stands, I will tear them down and make notes of all the oddball details to update this thread for future benefit to others. The internet info will long outlive me.

Another anomaly popped into my radar...

Anyone know what crank sensor this engine is compatible with ?

The GM 8.1/496 has a 24x reluctor on the crank and any off the shelf 8.1 sensor works in that application...

The latest PSI engines use a 58x reluctor with a 1x cam sensor.
Anyone know if the standard 8.1 24x crank sensor will also work with the 58x reluctor ???

Thats a great question for Cerberus66 or call Larry. Even with the standard Merc 496/8.1 the part numbers changed from early to later models so you need to be careful with that one.

However, arent you doing a swap? If you swap your ECU and harness cant you use the same reluctor ring or at least buy the same one?

Yeah one of these will be replacing the current Volvo Penta 8.1... so if I need to swap reluctor rings... its an option.
Trey swears by the Holley engine mgmt system... so that may be the route I go, depending how things shake out.
I have a local guy that insists he can access and program the Volvo Penta EGC ECU.
He is booked until January... so I wont know until I get him out to plug into it.
If he can hack into the ECU, it would save alot of headaches, time and money.

Just realized you are in GA, are you on Lanier?

Yessir. Sorta.
North end near Gainesville Marina. Not "on" the lake but 8 minutes from a boat ramp.
Property on the water is insane money.

I know, lived in Gainesville off 60 directly north of the 60 bridge on the little point that sticks out. 2005-2008

At that time, the lake was down like 30 feet or something. I left and that lake has been at or over full pool since then. Ridiculous. Have 2 good friends on the lake on the Dawsonville side. Was just up there for Petit Lemans at Road Atlanta. That lake is a good time!

Before reading this thread I would have passed over a boat with 8.1 power. I have a whole different viewpoint now, great thread and great info.

Yep, we are on Dawsonville side, just off 53 and West of Little Hall park.
Last boat was slipped at GM but current boat is too clean to keep in the water. Garage is going up next month to store and work on the boat and I will be a trailer sailor for the foreseeable future. lol

Yeah... it really is a more rugged/robust engine compared to all the previous generations. I will be keeping the platform alive in my boat.

PSI main bolts are an odd thread count. They are metric but they are 1.5 rather than 1.75.

improvement over stock.

I have 6 new arrivals of psi blocks and Kellogg crankshafts.

I guess we are keeping OEM bolts down there instead of studding it...
Which brings to mind something said to me years ago by friend and fellow drag racer... Andy Jensen. Google his name if not familiar with him.

I had a brand new 4.500" 9.8 Merlin block in his shop to build a 555 for my brothers 69 Chevelle...
When i asked him about studding the mains and skimming thru the bores with a line-hone... he said: "Arty... you only WISH this motor made enough horsepower to need studs... the bolts are more than adequate."

So we left the bolts in there.

Here is a quick little clip from the show "Pass Time" in 2009 where my brother and I had our 2minutes of fame. This was one of my last trips down the 1320 before hanging up my helmet for good. lol:

Do you know if the cam sensor from a 24x 8.1 will read a 58x reluctor ring on the PSI crank ? or do I need to swap over to the 24x reluctor ?

you need to change the ring to 24 unless you are changing the ecu.

That was on my mind also.
In the LS world the OEM ECM is tied to the 24X or the 58X, so regardless if it does your Volvo ECM may not be compatible.

He can change the reluctor ring. Several guys have changed them after issues with the trigger.

Yes sir. Seems he'll need to.
He just seemed to be hung up on the sensor.
My post was in regards to even if the senor does it's moot because the Volvo ECM may very well not be compatible.

If I cant get someone to successfully hack this Volvo EGC ECM, I will be forced to use an aftermarket system anyway... and no need to swap rings... hence my question and concern whether or not the crank sensor itself was compatible with both 24x and 58x... or if there was a specific sensor required for each reluctor ring.

This is uncharted territory for me. Everything Ive built previously... had a distributor and MSD crank trigger... so Im trying to cover as many bases as possible before surprises are dropped in my lap at an inconvenient time.

Can/will the holly system connect to all the current Volvo/Mercury sensors?

To have all the stupid-proof sensors is actually a good thing with the exception of the knock sensor. Im sure they can back off the knock sensor, but Ive had a heck of a lot of problems with it....

Is the sensors in your cores?
Does the connector look the same as a GM?

Not much info out there but from my search people claim the later 8.1L in the trucks were 58X.
I looked up a 2001) 8.1 and a 2007) 8.1 and they take the same crank sensor.

I also have a PSI 8.8 parts book in PDF. They list 2 ring part #'s on the crank page. Maybe a 24X and 58X but that's only a WAG!
But only list one crank sensor part number.

The crank sensor is nothing more than a hall effect sensor, shouldn't matter other than a relearn.

I
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6cfd1154e.jpeg
I have several now ready to go.

Are these new or used? Do you have the rest of the parts?

all are used sold to me by PSI because they could not produce new ones for us at River Speed and Marine.

we have blocks heads intakes.

Any idea off the top of your head... what the wrist pin diameters are on these 8.8's ???

I'm looking at these JE's and they appear to be correct if the .990 pins will work with the PSI rods.
Only other concern is the valve relief location/angle. These 15 degree heads may take a special cut in the pistons.

Ebay J&E pistons:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144774262714

Still poking around the internet looking for info on these motors and whatever parts I can find. <none sofar>

Im ready to start ordering parts.
If the one engine looks good inside, I may just do a compression check. If it looks healthy I will put a new cam and springs in it, freshen the heads and replace gaskets.

All Ive gotten accomplished sofar is a pair of lifting bars to make them easy to hook and hoist with the overhead crane. lol

Quoting myself here since the post did not age well.

Garage project has been met with delay after delay due to crappy weather. Here we are sneaking up on end of Jan and all I have is a hole in the backyard.