Few questions on how to proceed with engine coupler & bell housing
 

Good morning guys, As I am waiting for my rebuilt engine to finally be completed I want to be sure when it comes home I am ready to drop it in so I can get on the water ASAP. It has been a wallet unfriendly y so far as expected (BOAT!) It started because the boat was loosing power and speed plus the steering pin was leaking into the boat come to find out the engine had a blown head gasket and was injecting water so all the exhaust valves and seats were pitted to hell.

I have a brand new Bravo HP transom assembly now, engine is going to be completely rebuilt but what about the engine coupler and bushings in the bell housing. The splines look good on the coupler but is the rubber bad I do not know and the bushnings/bolts for the rear mounts, do they have upgraded ones I should look into changing too?

https://www.hardin-marine.com/p-2435...ine-mount.aspx





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It is hard to tell for sure because of the grease on the splines, but they look pretty worn to me. The teeth should be flat on the surface, not pointed. Clean it up and take a better look. As far as the bushings go, they are relatively inexpensive and easy to change with a ball joint press.

while its all down and torn apart upgrade or replace anything questionable. Mike has these out now and would be a great investment in reliability...
https://www.cpperformance.com/p-1101...e-coupler.aspx

Yeah I saw those i'm not sure im ready to swing another $1500 lol. This boat is on a small lake and barely sees wide open throttle, I basically go through 3/4 tank of fuel a season. Ho much power and a factory replacement unit hold? Im guessing my new engine setup will be in the high 500hp to low 600 at absolute max and im going to spin a 24-26P 4blade prop.

I'm sure you would be fine with a newer stock style, im sure you could even find a used one in great shape where someone else did an upgrade.

I guess there is no way of knowing if my existing one is good to go? I mean other than bad splines or dry rotted rubber what else is there to determine a bad or failing coupler?

ive always cleaned them and regrease, the easiest way is once its clean if the splines are sharp, worn and pointy like this /\, then it needs replacing, or if the rubber really moves while testing it with a shaft. the cost of a new one, or a nicer used one is worth it while you have the engine out would be lost if it spun on you while out.

I agree, I have no interest in doing it twice. I will clean it up this weekend and evaluate it.

This ^^^^^

Align engine to drive when put back in.

I will get it cleaned up today, is there an upgraded bushing & bolt kit I can switch too or doesn't matter?