I need a new oil cooler...suggestions?
 

Stock oilcooler on my old 454 looks destroyed. I need a new one, doesn't have to be fancy. Anybody have recommendations?

Here='s the replacement I was looking at unless there is something better???

Merc replacement

Thats tiny for an oil cooler, whats your engine and hp

Forgot to post that. building a 496 stroker. ~650ft/lbs 700hp

there is another merc replacement thats' 5 inches longer. Here


I'll go jump on Hardin Marine site and look around

Dang! is there really nothing out there other than This one for high performance engines like mine? Suckers aren't cheap!!

I've had great luck with Mr cool

https://www.mrcool.us/?gclid=Cj0KCQj...0aAhgGEALw_wcB

I saw those yesterday. They got a tandem/combo power steering cooler to for $550. Hardin wants 605. I'll give Mr. Cool a try. Thanks!

I bought a Mr cool factory replacement for my 496. It was not nearly as robust as the mercury one. The fittings were also in the wrong location. I sent it back and bought a mercury.

good to know.

and it will still be one of the cheapest things you buy for a boat

Where is this build? How much boost are you running and what blower?
Also, I have used Mr Cool 3"x18" oil coolers for the last 16 yrs with no issues ~600HP. Good product and great service.

naturally aspirated 496 stroker. AFR heads, 10.25:1 compression, Holley 850 carb with a 1 inch spacer, edelbock airgap, Gil exhaust manifolds, Elgin cam e1143p. Bunch of other stuff too, that’s just the quick and dirty.

That’s alot of cam. Exhaust dry ? Ignition have lots of initial advance ?
Ooopps, sorry. Oil cooler thread. 3x 18” should be okay (i may be in colder water being in central nh)


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...029ef7960b.png

3x18 should work for you (rated up to 700HP) if you go the tube cooler mounted to engine route.

They also have the flat coolers that go inside the bell housing which are supposed to be more efficient.

And then you have large performance coolers you mount on the boat.

Here's a thread I just posted recently looking for an oil cooler upgrade for my mildly built HP 500. Ended up getting a stock replacement from Mr. Cool after all said and done.

https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...r-upgrade.html

big cam. Yes it’s going to lope at idle. Wet exhaust with Gil manifolds and risers. I’m excited. Finally got the right pushrod length tool checker to get the length measured tomorrow.

246°/246° 110° LS on wet exhaust and it might not "lope" at idle. It might be drowning in reversion.

it’s why I’m going with a side exit exhaust. vacuum created should pull air back instead of water. Might have to rig something up though to extend where the water dumps from the riser further into the exhaust to achieve it.

Prop exhaust, transom exhaust or side exhaust doesn't matter. It happens prior to exit. I had TRS dry to the tip tails that would pull water back 2' when bore scoped. Had to keep idle up.

I wonder if extending the jacket down farther makes a difference? Thats a cool video.

You will definitely be pulling the engine again if you run that cam - hopefully just to change the cam. The original HP500 carb cam was 222/230 with a 110 LSA. That motor had well documented reversion issues. Merc redesigned (raised) the already long risers on the factory Gil manifolds and I don't think that even completely cured it. Think about how much more overlap you are going to have with a 246/246 110 LSA. Even if you go dry to the tip exhaust, I am pretty sure that combo will have pretty low boatabilty manners. There are quite a few proven cams for marine and I don't think that would be one of them.

Time to put my brain and welding skills to work then and create a water jacket out of stainless water jacket that runs the length of the exhaust with a separate exit out of the boat before I finish the build. if it's not easily feasible then I'll have to do some cam hunting. Creating the jacket is easy, creating the separate exit is more difficult.

Or just switch to a dry system, but the hull I have would need some modifications to fit it all.

or waterjacketed hose…like this may work. Would have to check temps of course.

Just me but even if you go dry to get rid of the water issues, that cam will be a DOG in the bottom end.

Let us know.
m

That cam is not feasible. You'll be rebuilding it - listen to what everyone else here is saying.

Second - get rid of the flat tappets - you'll be rebuilding it again. Spend the money now to do it right or spend upwards of triple to do it wrong.

Respectfully - TZ

tell me about the flat tappets please. Most failures I’m aware of are from crappy lubricants. If you use high end racing oil they’re fine. What am I missing here?

as for the cam being a dog, low end torque should be around 650ft lbs. now, I won’t know until dyno is done, but torque is what jumps you out of the water and HP keeps you going. I anticipate max HP curve between 4500-6000rpm. But I’ll put the build on hold till I confirm it all, and in the end if the dyno results don’t show it on paper for what I want. I have no issues tearing down and re-doing things. Engine building has become a hobby of mine that I enjoy.

Forgot to mention that the torque curve should be from ~2000-5000 rpm but falling around 4500. Most boating for me isn't at WOT, I'm pulling kids on tubes, wakeboards, ski's, and other water toys. If I'm wrong on the build I'll definitely post back and eat crow. The reversion I believe is going to be a given, but not insurmountable. That video above with the clear pipes shows reversion, but it's coming right out of the riser to a straight pipe. We will see how my exhaust handles it. I'll post pictures in my other thread here. After break in of the motor I'll pull the exhaust and exhaust manifold to look for reversion damage and if needed bore scope it. Time will tell.

Meant to reply to this when you asked, but forgot until I saw your other thread in the DIY section.

Flat tappets vs roller - it's a no-brainer really. Flat tappets have notorious problems with break-in. Even the best builders run into failures due to issues with the material - many will refuse to build engines with them (can't blame them either).There's nothing like having to redo something for twice or even three times the cost instead of simply doing it right in the first place (even if it costs extra up front). A good set of hydraulic roller lifters will cost twice what you have in a flat tappet cam and lift set, but it is money well spent. I mean, you've already spent the money for the machine work, rotating assembly, and decent heads - hamstringing it with a flat tappet cam just doesn't make sense.

I saw in the other thread that you have AFR heads. They look like Enforcers. I'd match the lift to support the flow capabilities of the head - .576 would be leaving some power on the table. Eric Weingartner did a review on those and they actually flow pretty well up into the .600-.700 lift range. A copy of the Merc 525 EFI cam would do well with this head - much better than the cam that you mentioned earlier (and it won't flood the engine with water).

Just my observation - I know you've already gotten the pushrods in so you may be past the point of changes. But if you can, I'd reconsider your choices here.

TZ