You really don't need the choke - I'd yank the assembly off the carbs and pull the choke plate and shaft - it's not needed. Mine will start, in 30 degree weather without a choke (emergency winterizing). They may complain a little at that temperature, but after about half a minute or so, they're good to go.

Also, as mentioned above, the reason not to use 12V from the coil is due to the use of ballast resistors - ballast resistors were used to drop voltage at the distributor in order to make points live. I don't think any of us here are using distributors with points so it's really no longer much of a consideration - Holley leaves it in the instructions to cover their arses.

Dump the choke.

On Holley's go one better and mill the choke tower off too. Instant Dominators! :lolhit:

Woohoo!!

:boat:

Thanks everyone for all the help. I will not be hooking up the chokes after all.

I agree with no choke, also never enabled mine, however if you decide to proper voltage location is voltage sensor terminal on alternator.

Typically best Holley idle mixture screw setting is about 1/4 turn out (rich) from best warmed up idle in neutral .

Less finicky ‘cold starts’ and good putting in gear drivability when warm.

As always, Your results may vary.

Note: engines with even mild camshafts will enjoy more initial timing. Even a few degrees can make a world of difference.

I switched to higher output single wire alternators a few years ago. Is there a location on this type of alternator for the choke connection? I have no idea what the initial timing is on my new engines but I know the total advance is 33 degrees. They start fine just cold blooded. Neither will idle cold below about 1700 rpm's.

IDK I am not at home so cannot look at my spare.

It'll be fine - I wouldn't even dick with the whole choke thing.

That's a tuning issue. I'd find out what your timing is at idle and tune the carbs. (unless you're talking 45°F and below)