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Joeyboost 07-10-2023 09:59 AM

main electrical power question
 
Im redoing alot in my boat and one of the things since I am doing a engine upgrade was I install an JS alternators marine 170amp alternator. MY question is this:

1. Batteries go into the 1,2,both, off switch
2. Out of the switch to the starter
3. 0/1 Ga wire from the single wire alt also goes to the starter

There is no fused protection there at all, I feel like between the stitch and the starter there should be a Heavy Duty breaker there or am I over thinking it?
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3d941986a.jpeg
Getting close to fire up. Wiring and a bunch of little items to check off the list which takes the most time.

Another question I am running a carb since the Holley EFI is on back order, it used to be an MPI mag injection system but with the carb 1/2 throttle on the stick is wide open on the carb. I assume there is no adjustment to change the ratio of the stick to the carb opening?

Griff 07-10-2023 11:36 AM

Depending on what controls you have, there may be more connection points on the throttle arm to change the amount of throw.

SB 07-10-2023 07:22 PM

Weird. Many years back I did gen v 502mpi to carb conversion and did not have a throttle issue.where on carb linkage did you attach the cable ?

zz28zz 07-10-2023 08:51 PM

In regards to circuit protection, I've never seen anything between the batt, batt switch and starter. Any device in that path would likely restrict current when starter is engaged.

Between the alt output and the starter, I have seen high current breakers (usually down by the starter) That's probably a good idea. If you've ever got a wrench up against the output terminal on the rear of alt and ground, it gets exciting real quick. Also if something goes south electrically inside the alt, a breaker would stop the carnage before it got completely out of hand.

Joeyboost 07-11-2023 06:03 AM


Originally Posted by zz28zz (Post 4872867)
In regards to circuit protection, I've never seen anything between the batt, batt switch and starter. Any device in that path would likely restrict current when starter is engaged.

Between the alt output and the starter, I have seen high current breakers (usually down by the starter) That's probably a good idea. If you've ever got a wrench up against the output terminal on the rear of alt and ground, it gets exciting real quick. Also if something goes south electrically inside the alt, a breaker would stop the carnage before it got completely out of hand.

Now that you mention it I think there is a non-resettable circuit breaker that goes on the starter lug, is there a better option or just reuse that?

Joeyboost 07-11-2023 06:06 AM


Originally Posted by SB (Post 4872857)
Weird. Many years back I did gen v 502mpi to carb conversion and did not have a throttle issue.where on carb linkage did you attach the cable ?

On the carb the throttle linkage attachment point only has one hole that fits the cable bolt properly its closer to the swivel point than the other attachment points but half way on the control opens all 4 butterfly's 100% Ill have to pull the controls and see if they have additional cable attachment points.

zz28zz 07-11-2023 08:13 PM


Originally Posted by Joeyboost (Post 4872898)
Now that you mention it I think there is a non-resettable circuit breaker that goes on the starter lug, is there a better option or just reuse that?

Really depends on what the non-resettable breaker is rated for in amps. If its 95A or more, I'd probably try it the way it is. Unless your trying to charge multiple batts simultaneously, or have some serious stereo amps or anything else that draws a lot of current, I doubt you will ever flow more than 95A (just charging a serviceable batt and running normal elec loads).

Being that you have pretty decent access to the starter, if the breaker ever trips ( due to overloading it), you should be able to bypass it to get yourself back into port. Depending on the configuration of the wiring connectors, might be a good idea to have a custom jumper available in your tool bag if needed.

Prev owner of my boat lost a trim pump fuse a few miles out in the gulf. Once he got back in, he installed short wires and a insulated spade connector to bypass the fuse if needed. Same principle.


Mbam 07-12-2023 04:20 AM


Originally Posted by Joeyboost (Post 4872899)
On the carb the throttle linkage attachment point only has one hole that fits the cable bolt properly its closer to the swivel point than the other attachment points but half way on the control opens all 4 butterfly's 100% Ill have to pull the controls and see if they have additional cable attachment points.

You have to use a bushing in the large hole

Google "holley carb throttle linkage bushing"



Mbam 07-12-2023 04:24 AM


Originally Posted by Joeyboost (Post 4872898)
Now that you mention it I think there is a non-resettable circuit breaker that goes on the starter lug, is there a better option or just reuse that?

That is actually a fuse. Nothing wrong with keeping that however I would also keep a spare on board. Just make sure to attach the battery directly to the starter post and the wire to the alternator to the fuse.

The starter circuit itself is normally not fused or current limited.

Joeyboost 07-12-2023 09:03 AM


Originally Posted by Mbam (Post 4873027)
That is actually a fuse. Nothing wrong with keeping that however I would also keep a spare on board. Just make sure to attach the battery directly to the starter post and the wire to the alternator to the fuse.

The starter circuit itself is normally not fused or current limited.

Yep This is what was on it when I removed the engine and I see the alternator went through it but not the starter or main cable from the battery. I have a 170amp alt replacing the stock 60amp but that shouldn't matter right?

Dont mind the rusty SH*Tbox in the backround thats my sleeper street shocker HAHAHA She loves hellcats their delicious LOL
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...812833a380.jpg

Mbam 07-12-2023 09:18 AM

Yes a 170 amp alternator will be a problem. In that case you need to use something that can handle the current and also change the wire from the alternator. Probably #4 to play it safe.

Joeyboost 07-12-2023 10:32 AM


Originally Posted by Mbam (Post 4873060)
Yes a 170 amp alternator will be a problem. In that case you need to use something that can handle the current and also change the wire from the alternator. Probably #4 to play it safe.

Wire from the alt to the starter is upgraded to a high strand welding cable 0/1 cable so that I have covered but the fusible link/breaker is my main concern. I was thinking I needed something from the battery to the starter but maybe I need to upgrade the breaker between the starter and the alternator? Like a 170amp tippable breakers but what kind? I do not want one of those "amazon 1/4 post" fire starters for $20 bucks.

Mbam 07-12-2023 10:35 AM

These guys should have everything you need

https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/c...rcuit-breakers

ThisIsLivin 07-14-2023 12:12 PM

From what I can see in the photo it looks like you are already using the right mounting point on the carb. Check your throttle to see if it has a cable attachment point closer to the pivot. What I have had to do for a fuse replacement in an emergency is use a couple wraps of 18ga solid copper wire inside the fuse assembly. It was enough to keep the batteries charged, of course it was only a 45A alternator.


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