CP Performance 1/2 system closed loop cooing kit
 

https://www.cpperformance.com/p-7394...per-brass.aspx

So I have about 4hrs on my fresh 509 build and she runs awesome but over the winter I'm debating aluminum heads to boost power a bit. With that also will come switching to a closed loop system so the engine doesn't see lake water and ruin the heads over time. Anyone tired this CP or Hardin kit? Only thing I hate is it being located right on top of the engine its UGLY and just makes servicing it that much more difficult. I have so much room side to side I wish they made a remote exchanger kit or can I just retrofit this one for a more appropriate spot?

What have you guys done to go from open to closed loop cooling?

Do not hesitate. In my 17 years of go-fast boating THIS kit and my Daytona CD1 box stand out as the best money ever spent on a boat. I’ve posted that several times on here.

The aesthetic issue was a concern of mine but I got over that instantly. Life is so much better with closed cooling.

servicing is not an issue. Not sure if you have std deck or tall deck motors but it fits both - I have tall decks. Temp NEVER leaves 150*.

mine is a Vbelt arrangement so there was a bit of work dealing with the PS pump, but worth it.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0653de6c6.jpeg

Very nice looking setup. Sometimes remote isn't an option...and function is beauty.

Unless it's one of those new silly looking pointy wedge bow boats...lol.

awesome, I think I’m going to do this then. My boat is V belt as well, I want to put aluminum heads on it but not until it isn’t raw water cooled so another expensive winter ahead lol.

yep - I have aluminum heads which is what drove me to spend the money, but I’ll never own another raw water cooled boat again. You just sleep better!!

as you can see I painted mine ahead of install. I actually like having them mounted on the motors because if you need to yank a motor they just come off with it as one entity.

I will paint mine before installing as well, not sure if I want it Black, White or Purple to stick with the theme. Question, what polished pulleys are you running I would like to add them as well.

This winter its being converted to Holley EFI and removing the carb as well.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...501743647.jpeg

I used a Hardin/Orca kit on my VP and it works like a champ. Mine mounts off the back of the heads... which created a whole 'nuther list of fitment issues, but nothing that couldn't be worked around.
The Orca mounts supported the tank too low... so I had to make taller brackets to raise the tank... and also had to relocate the hatch lift assy.
The instructions were also terrible... so it helps to have a basic idea how the cooling system works and how its divided with the kit.

Factory VP systems used a vertical tank mounted on the starboard front of the engine. I actually like it mounted at the back... so that's a bonus. No interference with front mounted accessories.

Seaford, Nicely done..
Do you have coolant recovery tanks and if so, where did you mount them? I'm curious at what height compared to the radiator cap they need to be to function. properly.
I'm in the process of re-doing the engines and engine bay. I would like to remount mine because they were in the way of accessing the far side of the motors. You can see them on the edges of the pic hanging from the hatch lip.
I might have to copy your idea for color on the tanks.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ab146119f3.jpg

I used Merc parts. At cruise they run between 160-170, and 150 above 60 mph. I got them used, from Mike Mello. I opened them up, cleaned them out, and resealed the ends. With the mounting hardware included, I have maybe $700 in the whole thing (both engines). I run aluminum heads, too - protecting the investment.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...177e3f07c.jpeg

I added a 1/2 system to my 42' Sportfish w/Twin 502s about seven years ago after installing AFR heads. As said above, it's one of the best things I have done to my boat.
Temp is solid at all speeds all the time. The only thing I did different was mounting heat exchanger parallel to stringers under the engine. Yes it makes a little more work
when pulling the engine but I try to not make it a habit!

Steve

Guys,

I noticed that none of you guys appear to have a coolant reservoir. The Merc 496, among others, has a close cooling half system, but it uses a reservoir. Is it not necessary in your setups?

Thanks. Brad.

Their reservoirs are built into the top of the heat exchangers. Merc's is remote.

My interest to have a closed cooling system falls in the opposite lane expressed here, since I have "aluminum" Imco powerflow plus manifolds and "cast iron" Merlin heads.
my Merlin heads have survived salt in the past, but not the Imco manifolds .......leaving me to believe I need a full system.....I don't believe you can protect the manifolds
independent of the engines thus a full system is needed........also, take a look at my efi engines, the efi throttle mouth would block a horizontal mounted tank and that's with
the air cleaners off.........I've been on this awhile and can't presently see where I have the room to mount even off engine locations.....I still have the original merlin heads
compared to 2x's replaced aluminum manifolds.......love the ocean, but fresh water lakes since the new pair of Imco's.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fd05cb6b0d.jpg

You could mount the heat exchangers on the bulkhead.. I’m running a half system with aluminum heads , stainless marine Gen 3 exhaust. Aluminum manifold. Hard to beat a 5 year warranty . I do flush with salt away after being in salt.

I have recovery bottles (blue) that will suck excess fluid back in.

The 496 uses a pressurized reservoir, doesn’t it?

TomZ,

Oh, Hell.... I don't know. Does it....?

I know you can crack the lower snout that leads to the heat log if you pull the reservoir out of the way to remove the fuel rail, though. Ask me how I know..... :picard1:

I did see the radiator caps on your heat logs, and figured that was your reservoir. I just want to confirm.

Thanks. Brad.

very cool

Mounting the system down in the stringers didn't create bleeding issues? I have a vacuum bleeding system that works awesome on my 2003 Cobra because that car is an air pocket nightmare when doing anything with the cooling system. I assume it will work the same on a closed loop in the boat.

More work from draining the coolant?
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I was thinking of setting up a pumped system to draw the coolant out and store it while engines are out. Unless it needs changing of course...but at least something that is simple, and avoids the bilge mess.

Probably a Tee and a ball valve to a guick connecter.

The thermostat water neck off the intake is often the highest...or close to...engine coolant flow, and can have an air bleed in the neck.

The remote exchanger has the benefit of being mounted anywhere , and in any position. Just adds some plumbing.

Being it is now a closed loop system I want to run Evans waterless coolant instead of typical antifreeze. I run it in my car and its expensive but works great

Don’t complicate it man!! Bolt it on and run it…..

As you can see, No room on the bulkhead for an off engine heat exchanger.......maybe back to engine mounted? .....but I'd have to relocate power steering pump & bracket for strb. engine and also figure out some way to not block efi throttle mouth air filter......possible?
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...418157c451.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d7ede8adc5.jpg

Scippy, I am in same boat as you. I want to close cool my 500 EFI's. Im thinking custom brackets, to push tank out, away from air cleaner.

maybe put the strainers in the back ? Or stringer mount them if there’s room. Yeah , lots going on in there !

I have no room for relocating the strainers, like you said "lots going on in there" ......maybe like Got Cigs thoughts on moving & mounting bracket away from the efi throttle mouth?

Also, power steering pump on strb. engine would be in the way, would have to be moved extreme left of engine..........speaking of power steering pump, just blew hydraulic line
at compression fitting from pump....several qts in the bilge!

I had a custom bracket made for my PS pump that moved it to the far side of the motor. It now basically hangs over the far stbd stringer
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...275c83b9a.jpeg

I think I asked you about that awhile back ..in my case it looks like the only move I can make....also, the power steering reservoir would need moving to.......a newer smaller ps pump would be more suitable.

That one line in that photo to the pump doesn't look to healthy is that what let go? If not might want to replace that before it does.

Coolant reservoir is mounted on top of engine. I don't recall ever having an issue purging system of air.

More work to remove engines, because of the extra hoses between engine and heat exchangers.

No, it was the line running atop the strb. stringer to the power steering filter.......thinking of getting rid of the old automotive ps pump & reservoir tank would be a good idea ...something like
seafordguy has ........if you look at his picture his hydl. line to the pump looks like it's on it's way out!

Yes - it’s looked like that for years. Luckily it’s a braided line so I’ll pray it lasts another couple seasons……