Anyone used CD-1 ?
 

I m going to upgrade ignition system on my bbc .
msd heard allot of you saying that its not the best and saw this CD-1 someone has a comment to say on it ?


http://www.daytona-sensors.com/cd-1--ignition-systems.html

Highly recommend

Is it difficult to setup ?

Not at all. It gets more complicated when adding a map sensor to control timing under boost, but overall i would say anyone should be able to set it up.

Ironic that this thread and a CPPerformance closed cooling thread is on the front page but I’ll say the same thing I said on the other thread - best money ever spent on my boat. I have NA565’s that made 800hp. Fixed my idle, helped me build in an appropriate timing curve, keeps them from stalling. Just a great product…..

don’t hesitate…..

Is this for non-EFI set ups only?

Normally, if you have a full efi system, it already has a timing curve and controls timing so you would NOT add a CD-1. IF you had a real entry level efi that did NOT control timing, like a entry level sniper or something homebrewed sure but most boats dont run that stuff.
FWIW IF someones gonna buy a Daytona CD-1, add the map sensor. Otherwise your only using half the capability of what the box offers.

map sensor even if I have a carb ? I have the 1050 dominator

Yes, that is how it controls the timing at idle and another data point RPM vs MAP.

Absolutely, the daytona box on top of offering various curves you could click a switch to or program ALSO offers 2 things that most people totally overlook:
1. A 3 d timing table, IF it can see map (vacuum), you can add timing vs vacuum AND rpm, IE, without it say you have 26 at 3000, 28 at 4000, 33 at 5000, you have a staright timing curve thats rpm based only. At that point you not much better off then just having a mechanical advance and a regular ignition box.
with a map sensor, you can build a map vs rpm vs timing table. So at 3000 you could have your 26 at 0 or wot but you could have say 32, 34 at 70, 80 map (9, 6" of vacuum).
2. Spark stabilization vs map /vacuum and different timing vs vacuum/rpms. You got a big cam, you got idle timing at say 12 degrees. So with map sensor you can have timing set at that 12 at 8", if vacuum drops, you could have it at 14 at 6, 18 at 3 , 20 at 0, all at the same rpm range. IF it starts revving too high at idle, it sees the vacuum go higher, it can pull timing to keep you on target as youd put lower numbers in the higher vaccuum cells.
Spark stabilization is same way, its off rpm target, vacuum drops, it can add timing quickly to keep it from stalling going in and out of gear.