Anyone used CD-1 ?
 

I m going to upgrade ignition system on my bbc .
msd heard allot of you saying that its not the best and saw this CD-1 someone has a comment to say on it ?


http://www.daytona-sensors.com/cd-1--ignition-systems.html

Highly recommend

Is it difficult to setup ?

Not at all. It gets more complicated when adding a map sensor to control timing under boost, but overall i would say anyone should be able to set it up.

Ironic that this thread and a CPPerformance closed cooling thread is on the front page but I’ll say the same thing I said on the other thread - best money ever spent on my boat. I have NA565’s that made 800hp. Fixed my idle, helped me build in an appropriate timing curve, keeps them from stalling. Just a great product…..

don’t hesitate…..

Is this for non-EFI set ups only?

Normally, if you have a full efi system, it already has a timing curve and controls timing so you would NOT add a CD-1. IF you had a real entry level efi that did NOT control timing, like a entry level sniper or something homebrewed sure but most boats dont run that stuff.
FWIW IF someones gonna buy a Daytona CD-1, add the map sensor. Otherwise your only using half the capability of what the box offers.

map sensor even if I have a carb ? I have the 1050 dominator

Yes, that is how it controls the timing at idle and another data point RPM vs MAP.

Absolutely, the daytona box on top of offering various curves you could click a switch to or program ALSO offers 2 things that most people totally overlook:
1. A 3 d timing table, IF it can see map (vacuum), you can add timing vs vacuum AND rpm, IE, without it say you have 26 at 3000, 28 at 4000, 33 at 5000, you have a staright timing curve thats rpm based only. At that point you not much better off then just having a mechanical advance and a regular ignition box.
with a map sensor, you can build a map vs rpm vs timing table. So at 3000 you could have your 26 at 0 or wot but you could have say 32, 34 at 70, 80 map (9, 6" of vacuum).
2. Spark stabilization vs map /vacuum and different timing vs vacuum/rpms. You got a big cam, you got idle timing at say 12 degrees. So with map sensor you can have timing set at that 12 at 8", if vacuum drops, you could have it at 14 at 6, 18 at 3 , 20 at 0, all at the same rpm range. IF it starts revving too high at idle, it sees the vacuum go higher, it can pull timing to keep you on target as youd put lower numbers in the higher vaccuum cells.
Spark stabilization is same way, its off rpm target, vacuum drops, it can add timing quickly to keep it from stalling going in and out of gear.

hey seafordguy, I'm in the middle of building a 598 solid roller, big heads motor.... I'm hoping for 800-850 but not sure how radical of an idle it'll be, so also intrigued by the Daytona CD-1 to help with idle if needed!

In any case, I'm very curious on the cam and head setup on your 565 to make that power!? If you don't mind sharing? PM me if you prefer.

Your running a carb or efi ?

I'll be running carb

happy to share what I have. Will dig out tomorrow…..

Do you mind if I PM you with a couple questions. Mine are still in the boxes however wanted to swap over this fall/winter. Are you carb FI. I just need to get a couple distributors. You can probably imagine how the local marina hates on me when I fuel up with dry pipes and only 10 deg base timing.

Cool man, appreciate it 🤘

I thought you dynoed with your Daytona boxes? IF your still thinking about re dynoing this winter, lmk, my dyno schedule is freeing up.
AND fwiw, when I build engines with big cams, we machine a bigger limiter bushing for MSD distributors that allows us to get base timing to about 18/20 degrees and keeps total advance at about 32/34 wherever its power timed all in that engine responds to, helps immensely with lazy idle/big cams,Smitty

I had started out with on the dyno and we were having trouble getting a signal. The new pertronix distributors I had purchased can be used ready to run and or also ign box compatible. After talking to both cd and pertronix techs we still couldn’t get the correct wire combo so I said bag it and just went the ready to run route. I’d like to get in touch and come down this winter if possible. My dyno session was basically pointless.

Im gonna pick up a couple cd distributors which I would’ve purchased to begin with however already the two new pertronix on the shelf. I always had good luck with those on other builds etc so at the time I thought stay with what I have had good luck with.

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZT8rrmX6y/

Was ready to purchase the CD1 but yesterday was searching on google and found out there is another CD1 with JMS chip .
try searching again and found nothing that’s says what’s the difference.
Called Daytona and told me that they changed the label only .

does someone knows what the difference between these 2 boxes ?
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d1f58bd19.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...cb6df79a9.jpeg

Damn, those have gone up $450+ since I bought and sold mine.

I don't know what the JMS chip is, but Daytona Sensors makes good stuff. either the CD1 or CD3 will do wonders.

JMS Chip is a company.
https://jmschip.com/?utm_source=goog...SAAEgKXAfD_BwE

Looks like Daytona Sensors is now a part of it

Don’t know I’m confused now. Called Daytona and they said they only changed the decal . For me box is totally different.

someone did MSD DIS
like this ?
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...72ef269d0.jpeg

Thanks guys
 

I went for Daytona sensor CD1 and can’t be happier. Starting perfect , idling perfect and runs much better !!

thanks guys for your advice

glad to hear!

I’ve had a CD-1 in operation for several years.
no issues.